EmilieEvans

joined 1 year ago
[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 3 points 2 months ago (2 children)

What is the plastic of your choice?

PLA, PETG, ... behave like a very slowly flowing liquid as such the print will deform/expand (creep).

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 3 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (1 children)

Interesting 3D printer design.

Using 3 linear rails to mount the bed. I suppose each linear carriage is one "corner"/point and all three of them to define a plane without overconstraining the buildplate but you keep all of the rigidity of the linear rails?

The issue I see is that the three linear rails in one plane are overconstrained so it is still is a pain to setup (especially on an ender 3 like frame construction).

What is the reasoning for using two motors instead of one powerful in the middle?

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago

Heat set inserts are an interesting topic. You don't need them if the screw is only installed once. Sure enough you can drive a metric screw into a 3D-prind and form/cut the threads but better are self tapping plastic screws. For nut vs. insert: It depends. if you can get away with a square nut (e.g. DIN 557 | don't use hex nuts like DIN934) they are quicker to install. Make the cutout slightly undersized so the nut is fixed/wont move when the screw is installed.

If you use inserts consider the flange type to get a very nice aesthetic: e.g. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006135129074.html

Removable plastic rivts are also a great fastening option. Push pins with integrated spring are equally briliant. Parts with snap fits are awsome but very diffuclt to design as the tab needs to flexible to be pushed in place but still strong enough to not break (layer adhesion).

Warping is indeed a big selling point for these materials. Major selling point/driving force I belive is still the esthetics of them as they provide a surface finish which can be sold (without post processing) without looking like a FDM 3D-print. Less warping, improved properties is more of a nice to have for most applications.

don’t seem to be, at least at the hobbyist level

This can be sad about a dozens of constructions. ISO1234 /DIN91/GB91-2000 splints are everywhere in the industry but nobody in the hobby space knows about them.

It’s pretty common to see cheap bearings in 3d printed parts, actually mildly interesting to me that bushings don’t seem to be

For bushing vs. bearing: It always depends on the application and industry.

. Do wonder though about the wear of 3d printed bushings, surfaces won’t be smooth,

Talked a while ago to somebody that run studies on FDM printed bushings. The verdict was that print orientation/layer adhesion was a limiting factor with their setup.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago
[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 3 points 2 months ago (2 children)

On the composite filaments, abrasive filament sure sounds like a great thing to make wear surfaces out of!

Most people are moving torwards glass- or carbonfibre filled materials for one reason or another (e.g. asthetics). If the 3D-printed part contains a bushing than it is the same material. Often it is enough to just stick a metal rod through it. No need to worry about sourcing and installing bushings.

Also for the Igus materials (e.g. Nylon with PTFE) it is a composite. Anyway. If you have a real need for a high endurance than you can't 3D-print. Injection molding is king and if this isn't possible at least use a hybrid manefacutring (additve + subtracte) to get the appropiate surface finish and tolerances.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 8 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (5 children)

You can't blame him.

Our education system doesn't train us on this. After high school, you might never heard IPA before or know what peroxide are. You don't even know enough to understand how to read these hazards/datasheets (assuming you know that these documents even exist).

From a technical standpoint it looks easy: heat it up, let it condense, done.

It is all over social media for a while now. Further suggesting it is good practice/safe to the viewer.

Most people never experience what power even a small volume of 1L of alcohol vapor can have. They also never experienced that they would fall in shock if it goes wrong. Unable to do anything for a minute or two. Recently did the math on a 30L IPA vapor tank to smooth "large" Polymaker Polysmooth prints (just the energy set free in an explosion). This was the moment I looked for alternative options as it was a scary number asking for serious engineering to keep it safe.

In my opinion resin manufacturers are to blame too. Downplaying the hazards of resin 3D-printing. In the previous paragraph, I mentioned how the education system doesn't prepare us and as such also the influencer/reviewer might not know. Even assuming best intentions they echo/amplify the message that resin printing is safe.

Providing a recent example how misinformation spreads involving an influencer I won't name and Prusa's response: https://old.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1ekn24x/are_cf_filled_filaments_dangerous_prusament_lab/

Toxicology is rocket science. Understanding (understanding isn't the same as accepting without questioning) what somebody says without being an expert is (near) impossible and even between experts there is often a discussion on what the results mean/what action shall be taken.

I don't question the results Prusa published but I highly disagree with the message:

TLDR - our Prusament filaments with carbon fibers and prints made of them are safe The National Institute of Public Health used two methods of measurement. The skin irritation (image 1) and cytotoxicity (image 2) tests involved 30 volunteers (aged between 29 and 70 years) wearing prints made of PCCF and PA11CF materials taped to their skin. The measurement results showed that none of the volunteers had the slightest irritation even after more than 72 hours of wearing the print on their skin. [...]

If you would test with loose asbestos fibers the test would likely also pass and I hope we all agree that asbestos is dangerous. So right from the start, we have an oversimplification (average Joe isn't interested in 5 pages of what was measured. He is looking for simple answers) or Mr. Prusa wasn't aware of the context of these results (context is critical for toxicology!).

What I believe has happened here: Prusa Research did the responsible and tested if their workplace conditions are safe for the employees. This means this data is likely specific to factory conditions and production steps. What then happened is that this unnamed influencer posted a sensational video and Prusa took this data and posted it as a response completely out of context.

As most people probably trust Prusa Research they now likely feel like it is certain that Carbon fiber-filled materials (in every application) are safe while the actual truth is nobody knows a good answer at the moment.

The next step is people printing parts like bushing out of these filaments. Bushings more or less grind themself which means we now might have fine carbon fiber dust and damaged fibres which might be a health risk (again: nobody knows exactly if there is a safe level and what this would be for these composite filaments).>

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 3 points 2 months ago

The benefit of core XY is that you don't have a heavy motor riding on the X-axis allowing you to push higher speeds without increasing the rigidity of the y-axis. The downside is the long belt which will stretch a tiny bit meaning a lower accuracy.

With core XZ you don't gain anything as the z-axis is generally not high dynamic meaning the weight doesn't matter at all but still need to eat the downside of a long belt. In my opinion, it is just a stupid gimmick people fell for because is looks novel or cool.

Also core XZ is a bed slinger. With small objects, this is not an issue. The higher they are and the less rigid the print is the bigger the issue of the 3D print itself deflecting gets. With the usual 20cm height and the usual helmet and the like this aspect doesn't matter at all.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (2 children)

Do you have a big budget to buy parts? You can do work in CAD? Copy the Pantheon HS3 design approch. Always question design decisions. In the broader picture of 3D-printer is the HS3 still engineering porn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooE0Xc6jPBY

I can make reliable and accurate.

I’m thinking a core XY

Mark my words: CoreXY hype is slowing down. In the next years, we will see people avoiding it due to the accuracy challenge of long belts. Not sure what will be the next trend but maybe we are going back to shorter, separate belts with the motor riding on the gantry once more. I don't see ballscrews happening soon as all of the china, low cost, easy to source options are unsuitable at the moment (wrong pitch/mm per revolution).

With Prusa publicly talking about E3D Revo issues (and implementing a special slicer mode for them) we might see there too a new design.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 10 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (3 children)

If you want an new SBC: Intel N100 for as low as $60 with 4GB DDR5 RAM.

The raspberry pi isn't a hobby/consumer product anymore. 2020 has shown that the Pi Foundation sees itself as an industry-first product. Also don't forget that they went public a few months ago so who knows what will come out of this step.

Let's face it: Intel driver support is great maybe even better than it is on a Raspberry Pi and proprietary is both hardware.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Do the math.

Buying new might be cheaper than upgrading the ender 3:

hotend+extruder: orbiter v3 110€

stepper (not sure why you would want): 2x (5-phase 0.72° stepper and 5 phase stepper driver): 200€ [2 phase 0.9° would be significantly lower cost but even less of an upgrade]

cooling fan: larger 6023 blower: 13€

enclosure: Not great for a bed pusher. Core XY is compact. Regardless approx. 100€

Between those, you would already look at approx. 425€ in parts and still have the basic Ender 3 frame and electronic that if you haven't done might want to upgrade to.

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 2 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

I would still buy the fan upgrade (as a replacement part) and maybe the high-flow nozzle (keeping compatibility with premade profiles).

[–] EmilieEvans@lemmy.ml 10 points 3 months ago (1 children)

But- the market has left them behind. XL is a great idea but awfully expensive and maybe not perfectly implemented.

E3D toolchanger launch price in 2019 was 2700 GBP. Adjusted for inflation it is in today's money 3300 GBP (approx. 3900€). A Prusa XL is 3700€. For toolchangers the Prusa price isn't out of the ordinary.

The issue is the performance/reliability isn't there to back this price point. Having to worry about printed parts bending on a 3.7k€ machine is laughable. Having issues with a heatbed is laughable. Support having trouble resolving these issues/identifying what exactly is broken isn't a great overall picture.

 

Needed as soon as possible a spool holder for larger spools so printing anything that is dozens of hours was out of the question.

Solution? Looked at the heavy shelves and had an idea.

One remix later, a 1-hour print and with some round wood that was lying around this spool holder was born.

I like the position of the spool so much that it is here to stay.

 

With this particular model, Prusaslicer is very optimistic about bridging and support generation:

  1. the right side (dark blue) has no support that could help with load-bearing
  2. the entire layer will be connected to those two lines
  3. more than 5cm long bridges

I don't think this gcode will successfully print.

How do fix adjust the cura setting to generate a printable output?

The model in question is: https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/3D/BUB0612HJ-00.stp

 

What cameras did you add to your 3D printer? What is your favorite camera angle?

For me, the nozzle cam watching the first layer is my personal favorite (OV9281 image sensor).

 

As you might be aware BambuLab issued a recall for the BambuLab A1 3d-printer. In particular, the issue is the mains-voltage (230V AC) heat bed cable.

As a resolution, they offer two solutions:

  1. Ship the entire printer back to them and receive a replacement printer.
  2. They mail a new cable and you install it.

What BambuLab doesn't mention at all is the test according to EN 50678 (Verification of the effectiveness of protective measures of electrical equipment after repair). Unless you can perform this test I would recommend choosing the printer replacement.

 

Right now looking into bang for the buck workhorses with a small footprint/build volume. A description that fit the Prusa mini+ perfectly in the past, but it feels like Prusa is a dinosaur that hasn’t moved with the times.

So who is still buying the Prusa mini+ and why?

Personally: While Prusa has outstanding support, good data protection, and does good things but there is now the Bambu Lab A1 mini.

Prusa mini is at the moment 500€ plus 20€ for a filament sensor (sic., it’s nearly 2024 and that’s an paid upgrade on half a grand printer) and another 7€ for WiFi.

Bambu Lab on the other hand is 320€.

Looking at the specifications, the A1 looks like a clear winner: For maintenance, there are three tasks: 1. cleaning and lubricating the mechanics (both are the same in this respect); 2. cleaning the build surface (both are the same); 3. maintaining the hotend and here Bambu Lab is clearly the better system as you can replace the nozzle in just a few seconds compared to Prusa’s E3D v6 hotend, which requires hot tightening.

The operation is not that different. Both support network, web interface, and automatic bed leveling probed at the nozzle. Bambu Lab has a camera built in, but this requires the printer to be connected to the BambuLab cloud, which may not be possible as the model data is shared with/uploaded to China. I would say this is still a strong point for Prusa as privacy is not an issue with their printers which means they can be easily deployed.

Performance should be close with input shaping enabled, but the A1 mini has the higher flow rate hotend, which means BambuLab is once again the winner (still no highflow at only 28 mm^3/s but twice the flow of a Prusa V6).

The build volume is identical and the footprint is also almost identical, so again no point where Prusa beats BambuLab.

Value? I have already mentioned it. 1.6 Bambulab for the price of 1 Prusa is a clear answer. If Prusa still had the 400€ original launch price and a filament runout sensor included, maybe the answer would be Prusa due to privacy/easier integration. The 200€/printer price difference is so significant that I don’t see who is still buying multiple Prusa mini+.

Btw. is there another printer on the market that just works paired with a small footprint and excellent value?

 

Today E3D launched their latest extruder. What's your thought on the Revo roto?

only/first Reviews: Made with layers (formally Thomas Sanladerer): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5UpN0QaxGY E3D launch video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6GxPZUM0k4 product page: https://e3d-online.com/products/roto-extruder

155 GBP (without tax) for the sensor version. Equipped with a normal brass nozzle and a low-power heater core.

The pushing force isn't great as it can't do more than 6mm/s (14mm^3/s, approx. 60g/hour) limiting it to 0.15, 0.25 and 0.4mm nozzles. That's significantly short of the E3D Hemera XS Revo performance they claimed this extruder matches.

Is 14mm^3/s enough for 200 USD+ extruder for 2024 and beyond if you could trade approx. 20g more weight for 4x the max. flowrate?

 

3D-model collections like Printables or Thingiverse are awesome. Required (ASAP) a CPU socket cover to ship the motherboard. Found it online and 15 minutes later I had the part on hand.

 

Three years ago I looked into properly wiring hotends with quick toolhead swapes and came up with this: Combining the entire hotend wiring into 3x shielded 4-conductor cables (thin cables for small drag chains with tiny bending radius) and options to terminate the shield. The static side features an USB-port to retrofit Raspberry Pis and a step down to generate the 5V supply from a single 12 or 24V power input.

For the moving side/hot-end PCB it's a similar story:

  • stepdown to 12V for fans and LED lights
  • stepdown to 3.3V and 5V
  • selectable logic voltage (3.3V, 5V)
  • temperature and humidity sensor (feedback for heated chambers: adding a measurement point close to the print or being able to measure any point within the chamber to check for uniformity during development)

Why did it all fall apart? BOM cost.

Those connectors with locking lever for easy removal cost a fortune and the 3D-printing world moved on to CAN.
For the active version of this, it's a different story. Never figured out how to make it plug-and-play/foolproof (active circuit for safety features (contact resistance, overtemperature, fan failure, etc.) as well as preemptive maintenance (heater wear, fan bearing degradation, and more).

 

Some holders or adapters I made moons ago.

 

Pen holder with an integrated ruler and USB-stick storage in the top cap.

 

Years ago when I was building this CNC machine, I decided to design and print a NEMA23 stepper motor cover to wire the machine neatly. Today, I upgraded the stepper to an servo. All I took was a screwdriver.

If you want to build or remix it: https://www.printables.com/model/96550-nema23-stepper-cover-hut-wago-terminals

 

Have you ever wondered if the yellow/orange plastic windows that all resin/SLA 3D printers have are sufficient?

Here's your answer:

interesting data points:

  • 500nm: 54.9% (transmission)
  • 490nm: 37.9%
  • 480nm: 16.9%
  • 470nm: 1.6%
  • 460nm: 0.3%

**What does this mean? Feel free to comment. **

My take:

First of all, this instrument is not designed to measure OD, so it can barely measure down to OD3. The actual value for 400-450nm could be lower (e.g. 0.001-0.0001% transmission).

SLA 3D printers work at 405nm. This means that the enclosure will likely protect you from the UV radiation of the printer. This is good news.

Does it also protect the resin from sunlight? To answer this question, it is important to understand how the resin behaves to wavelengths above 460nm (not measured). In my practical experience, it does not provide adequate protection. Clean the vat after each print or add another light-blocking layer for (short-term) storage.-

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