this post was submitted on 05 Jun 2024
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Solarpunk technology

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Technology for a Solar-Punk future.

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[–] HelixDab2@lemm.ee 3 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (2 children)

I would be very, very suspicious of claims about this. Grading patterns and fitting them to a specific person is much harder than simply plugging numbers in to a program. You're likely going to need to do significant fitting of the pattern. (Also, without getting too deep into the process, you're going to need to either have a very wide format printer, or a pen plotter, in order to use the patterns. Which certainly isn't the end of the world, but most people don't have a 72" wide roll-to-roll printer at home.)

I'm saying this as someone that did their undergrad work in fashion design, and used to be pretty decent at pattern making before I switched industries.

I've used multiple flat patterning techniques from a range of authors; you can get some really weird results when you plug your own measurements in, versus the 'ideal' measurements. For instance, I always need to significantly pitch the back of jeans patterns for myself (like, 2-3" or more); some ways of creating a jeans sloper end up being so incorrect on me that they don't work at all.

[–] z00s@lemmy.world 4 points 5 months ago (1 children)

Have you actually used their system? Or even been to the website?

The numbers aren't automatically scaled; they tell you what measurements to take and how to take them, then the pattern is automatically adjusted to your actual measurements. You can download large format patterns or get them split up into A4 pages that you can print at home and tape together.

It doesn't matter how much of an expert you are if you have done nothing more than read the headline before racing into the comments to shit on it.

[–] HelixDab2@lemm.ee 0 points 5 months ago (1 children)

[...]then the pattern is automatically adjusted to your actual measurements.

This is called grading. Except that it doesn't actually work quite like that; you can't just dump new numbers into an existing sloper (or block, depending on which term you were taught) and expect to be able to make it fit correctly without extensive edjustment. Grading works pretty okay when you're talking about smaller sizes (for women, that would be commercial sizes 00-4 or so, roughly size 6-12 for true sizing), but does not work well when you're just plugging in numbers past that very limited range.

[–] z00s@lemmy.world 1 points 5 months ago

Have you actually even visited the site?

[–] amelore 1 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (1 children)

Yes, I'm more of a novice, but have already tried multiple pattern systems as well. An expensive digital one with loads of measurements superficially similar to this. Also Luterloh system with radial coordinates, but that just sizes you from one measurement.

Luterloh gave me an oddly sloped buttseam. I always have to lengthen sleeves, the custom sized does do that for me, but I also still had to adjust other stuff. Different from a commercial pattern but do still have to do some adjusting.

As for the printing, it's the same as every other digital pattern. You either tape a whole bunch of A4 or Letter sized paper, or print in A1 or A0 roll. Freesewing is actually good at this, you can rearrange the pieces to fit whatever paper you will print on before saving as pdf.

[–] HelixDab2@lemm.ee 1 points 5 months ago

I'm not a novice, but I'm badly out of practice. Doing things like properly shaping sleeve caps for set-in sleeve is something you lose pretty quickly once you aren't doing it every day.