pepsison52895

The previous owner had swapped in some crappy single-tone horn for some reason and the wiring was pretty sketchy. Went in to fix the wiring and decided to upgrade the horn along the way.

When printing on my Ender 3 Max Neo (stock except for a PEI bed), the right side of the bed is always printing too close. I manually leveled the bed, and then I run the auto-leveling sequence. I also have it set to run auto-level before every print, and confirmed that it's enabled using M420 S1 after the G29 in the opening gcode.

I also disabled it in one test with M420 S0 and confirmed that it is making a difference so it appears to be working, but the auto-level map seems to be incorrect every time. Any ideas?

I'm pretty new to 3d printing as I just got an Ender 3 Max Neo for Christmas. I've been playing around with various filaments from Inland and Creality, but I'm having odd results with the Creality ones.

When using the Creality filaments, my prints get random holes, or outright fail, because of gaps when it's extruding. The roll is not tangled and my extruder doesn't appear to be slipping. I've tried adjusting speed, temperatures, flow, z offset, etc, but nothing is fixing the random gaps. The Inland filaments are working great and are very consistent. Any help is appreciated.

Trying to repair a Hyperkin Duke Xbox controller where the left trigger doesn't respond. Found that the resistance of this potentiometer doesn't change when it's moved, so I'm looking to replace it. I'm a novice with this stuff though and I'm having trouble identifying it. Any help is appreciated.

I've got a 1984 Honda Elite 125 scooter and it misfires at top speed. At WOT, it pulls up to 48 MPH and starts popping and surging. Backing down to about 90% throttle smooths it out and brings it up to 50-51 MPH. I've tried changing the main jets and it makes no difference. It changes how hard and smoothly it accelerates, but it still starts stumbling at the same point.

I was thinking it had a rev limiter of some kind, but changing the CDI also had no impact.

So far, the carb has been replaced (PO put a 250 carb on it for some reason and it still had the same issue, but was running FAR too rich). Ignition coil, spark plug, plug wire, and CDI have all been replaced as well without change.

My wife and I headed out for our late honeymoon. It was supposed to be a 3-week trip and about 4000 miles. She was on her 2008 Concours, and me on my 2022 KLR 650, which just had new tires and tubes installed. About an hour into the trip, my bike started wobbling. It got worse so we pulled over and found that my tube popped for some reason. Now my wallet is $630 lighter from the tow and I'm back home with my bike parked an hour away so that it can get serviced. Hopefully we make it more than 50 miles tomorrow.