pageflight

Adapter will go on sale via dealers at that point, although from what I read any 3rd party adapter (cheaper and available now) will work as well.

I'd like to make our front entryway lights motion sensing. However the wiring is a little complicated. And I'd like the lights to be operable normally if the automation doesn't work for some reason.

There are three light switches: one by the front door, one up the staircase at the landing, and one at the back of the entryway at another interior door. My favorite switch is the CloudFree motion sense switch, running Tasmota, but I don't see it or a similar switch available for three-way wiring.

There are two light fixtures: One hanging lamp, and one track light. The bulb in the hanging lamp is hidden, so although I could swap it out with something smart, it wouldn't be easy to just put a motion sensing bulb in there. And the bulbs in the track light are some small/unusual base, not something I can upgrade.

How would you automate the lights? Grateful for any ideas!

It took lots of repetition honing, stropping, going through setup, realizing the chip breaker was right on the edge of the blade, repeat, new error. The first picture is progress: small and crunchy, long and crinkley, long and papery.

Sharpening using Atoma 400/600/1200 diamond plates + a strop I had around. I found Wood By Wright's setup video helpful and have been enjoying Rex Kreuger's videos on sharpening and other things.

I worked so hard for these shavings, surely there's something fun to do with them.

I made a box joint jig following [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyJof__nTR4](Woodfather's video). It's a nice simple/flexible design for those of us without a dado stack.

First try was very sloppy, but once I adjusted the key width and got my clamps set up better the fit is great. The scraps I had around were bed slats off the curb, which were very cupped. But they actually turned out pretty nicely (after plenty of cleanup).

Boiled linseed oil finish.

Wrapping up its first season, I think we're supposed to get a harvest starting year three.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/20112075

I have two type-k thermocouples with breakouts from Adafruit, attached to a ESP8266 (Huzzah I believe). My oven was very old and didn't come with a temperature readout or any kind of preheating status (but thankfully also no builtin WiFi). The Tasmota device reports to HomeAssistant, which stores data in InfluxDb, which I can then chart in Grafana.

Here you can see the internal temperature got to 151F, and I was surprised to see how much the oven's temperature rebounded after I took the cakes out, despite being off.

The recipe is "Chocolate Lava Cakes For Two" from NYT Cooking. It's one I make semi-regularly, pretty quick on a weeknight and delicious. I have small ramekins so the recipe makes three and they cook a little faster than the recipe's would.

I baked "Chocolate Lava Cakes For Two", the NYT Cooking recipe. It's one I make semi-regularly, pretty quick on a weeknight and delicious. I have small ramekins so the recipe makes three and they cook a little faster than the recipe's would.

I have two temperature probes (thermocouples on a Tasmota ESP8266 => HomeAssistant => Grafana). Mostly for my entertainment, but here you can see the internal temperature got to 151F, and I was surprised to see how much the oven's temperature rebounded after I took the cakes out, despite being off.

I made three sets of classroom mailboxes, for passing in papers / storing journals etc. Sides and back are 3/4" plywood, shelves are 1/4" plywood. Corners are rabbet and dado joints, my first time doing that. I did the cuts on my table saw. (I tried to route them, but didn't get as clean a cut as I'd like with the cheap Ryobi bits I had.) Shelves slide into dados. The sides/centeres are designed so one fence location could cut the top and bottom dado. I didn't have a dado stack, and am using a Shopsmith which has the table saw blade arbor on a quill, so I set the quill stop for my dado width and used that to make multiple cuts slightly apart. That worked fairly well but must have been slightly off on some cuts where it was very hard to slide the 1/4" plywood shelves in; I ended up sanding the edges of some slightly thinner.

I just received a text from (701) 922-7432 saying:

PUBLIC ALERT: We are confirming your voter file records. Please do not respond with any sensitive information, but do confirm whether your name and address is [full name] at [Street address]. stop = end

I see a recent r/Michigan post about it but not decisive mention of a scam or real campaign.

I've built the section of the table that flips. On the saw side, I have 1-1/2" to build up so the bed of the saw is flush with the rest of the table. How would you attach the saw so it's secure to flip upside down?

The top only has holes at the front, for inserting a side clamp.

Maybe bolt through the ends into a block underneath?