brownmustardminion

joined 2 years ago
[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago

Yeah I would suggest buying another NIC. They're cheap, its good security, and it opens up another port upstream for other uses.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago (2 children)

I use the pcie coral and it works fine with plenty of processing to spare although I believe mine coast e closer to $50. I have 6 amcrest PoE cameras. You should just buy a PoE switch and directly connect all cameras to it. Then link that directly to your frigate box and lock down access. Any amcrest camera should work well with frigate. I believe they all support rtsp protocol.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago

When I say local I mean automated PVE backups the same as it would be through PBS. If that makes any difference.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 months ago (2 children)

I have a remote pbs but the backups aren't current because there was a connection error. I have Proxmox backups locally to a USB thumbdrive. That's what I was going to restore from.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

So I use Fusion360 for the technical building of components; framing, drywall, cabinets.

I export this to 3dsmax and flesh it out for archviz. Rendering with V-ray.

Unfortunately there aren't any good options for pirating either of these softwares.

3dsmax and vray also have very steep learning curves.

There are also better alternatives than Fusion360 which include BIM features, but they're insanely expensive unless you own a profitable architecture firm.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 12 points 2 months ago

This is the way. Frigate just had a major update and the UI is now amazing.

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 months ago (3 children)

I had a few episodes saved offline in my apple podcast app but it appears you are correct. Surely there's an archive somewhere?

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 months ago (3 children)

Are they roughly 55GB compressed?

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 1 points 3 months ago

Appreciate the thorough reply. Mind sharing which service you used to download your Spotify tracks?

[–] brownmustardminion@lemmy.ml 2 points 3 months ago

I feel you but I've already got curated playlists of over 3,000 songs me and friends have spent a few years putting together. I actually don't mind the idea of pulling each artists whole disco as lidarr does. My current roadblock is the lack of good resources/tools that automate the process.

 

If you have an outdoor Ethernet port—in my case with a WiFi AP connected—how can you go about protecting your network from somebody jacking in?

Is there a way to bind that port to only an approved device? I figured a firewall rule to only allow traffic to and from the WiFi AP IP address, but would that also prevent traffic from reaching any wireless clients connected to the AP?

Edit: For more context, my router is a Ubiquiti UDM and the AP is also Unifi AP

 

What is the general consensus on trusting data removal services with the data you provide them?

I’ve spent 5 years telling myself I’ll go through the long lists of data aggregators and one by one manually send removal requests. But it’s such a massive undertaking. I’d like to finally get it done through one of these services, but my gut tells me it feels wrong.

Has anybody used them and how do you feel about it? Is DeleteMe a good choice?

 

I have a Dell Poweredge r720xd in RAID10. I've had a couple of drives fail since I've bought it and was able to buy cheap replacements on ebay.

I had another drive fail recently and one of the spare ebay drives came up as "blocked". It put me out a few days while I waited for a new one to arrive; also from ebay.

I'd like to avoid getting another dud drive. Are there any reputable resellers of these old drives so I can stock up on some spares?

 

I’ve made a few posts in the past about my experimentation with connecting various devices and servers over a VPN (hub and spoke configuration) as well as my struggles adapting my setup towards a mesh network.

I recently decided to give a mesh setup another go. My service of choice is Nebula. Very easy to grasp the system and get it up and running.

My newest hurdle is now enabling access to the nebula network at the same time as being connected to my VPN service. At least on iOS, you cannot utilize a mesh network and a VPN simultaneously.

TLDR: Is it a bad or a brilliant idea to connect my iOS device to a nebula mesh network to access for example my security camera server, as well as route all traffic/web requests through another nebula host that has a VPN such as mullvad on it so I can use my phone over a VPN connection while still having access to my mesh network servers?

 

As the title says, I'm trying to multiboot Fedora 40 and Ubuntu 24. The documentation and guides for this all seems pretty outdated through my searching and troubleshooting.

I currently have ubuntu installed. My drive partition table looks like this:

  • sda1 -- EFI (250MB)
  • sda2 -- /boot (ext4, 2GB)
  • sda3 -- empty (ext4, 2TB) <-- Fedora partition
  • sda4 -- Ubuntu 24 (LUKS encrypted, 2TB)

I'm trying to install Fedora now and it's giving me nothing but errors. The most useful guide I found for this specific setup just has you adding sda3 as the installation path (mounted at /) for Fedora and it's supposed to figure out the EFI and boot, but that doesn't happen. In fact, the EFI and /boot partitions show up under an "Unknown" tab in the Fedora custom partition window of the installation. They should be under a tab such as "Ubuntu 24 LTS". Fedora isn't recognizing the ubuntu installation (because it's encrypted?)

Am I wrong in assuming that both OS's should be sharing the EFI and /boot partitions? Maybe that's the issue?

Anybody out there successfully dual booting Linux distros with both distros encrypted?

 

For years I’ve had a dream of building a rack mounted PC capable of splitting its resources to host multiple GPU intensive VMs:

  • a few gaming VMs
  • a VM for work that can run Davinci Resolve and Blender renders
  • an LLM server
  • a Stable Diffusion server
  • media server

Just to name a few possibilities…

Everytime I’ve looked into it, it seemed like the technology just wasn’t there yet. I remember a few years ago Linus TT took a shot at it, but in the end suggested the technology (for non-commercial entities) just wasn’t in a comfortable spot yet.

So how far off are we? Obviously AI focused companies seem to make it work, but what possibilities exist for us self-hosters who might also want to run multiple displays in addition to the web gui LLM servers? And without forking out crazy money for GPU virtualization software licenses?

 

HACS has a problem with hitting the GitHub rate limit when you first install it. It’s not really that big of a deal. You usually just need to wait an hour for the local database to populate.

It used to be optional to link your GitHub to HACS to bypass the rate limiting but now it seems the installation requires it.

I’m not a fan of this as somebody who uses Homeassistant for its privacy values and am kind of frustrated HACS removed the ability to install without a GitHub API key.

Is there a manual way to override the API linking process?

 

Would this work or would I have problems:

Using dd command to backup an entire SSD containing dual boot Windows/Ubuntu partitions into an .iso file, with the intent to then dd that iso back onto the same size SSD in the case of a drive failure?

 

I’m solidly leaning towards a Schlage Connect Lock due to its local only Zwave capabilities (which has the benefit of also extending battery life). I was strongly considering the Aqara U100 for its many features, but based on what I’ve seen I can foresee it being a nightmare to get working locally with home assistant and the need for a phone app makes me fear for long term support.

I use the Schlage Encode for other houses and love the way it looks and how easy it is to setup and use. I really wish they would make a Zwave version with the same hardware.

So before I jump in and buy the Schlage Connect, is there anybody who has experience with either of the locks I’ve mentioned? Feel free to chime in if you have a different lock that you think beats out these.

 

I tried my hand at rigging a proximity sensor to the water meter in my house. Sadly it doesn’t have the spinning magnet for the sensor to pick up.

I looked into other options for pulling data from the meter, but for each method, my very antiquated meter had a complication that would prevent it from working.

TLDR: Any recommendations for a home water meter that’s local and integrates well with home assistant?

I’m going to check with my water company first, but likely will remove the old meter and replumb a new “smart” meter and an automated shut off valve into the water supply. I believe the current meter is leftover from before the utility added new meters further upstream, so I’d rather get rid of the rusty piece of junk anyway.

 

I've attempted to create a VM on my ubuntu host machine that is accessing the internet via a dedicated VPN app. I'm able to disconnect my host VPN and access the web within the VM, but cannot access the web when the host VPN is enabled. Ideally I'd like to enable the VPN on the host and pass through web access to the VM.

I have two questions:

  1. If my use case is to use a VM to increase privacy and security as well as isolate my operations within the VM from my host, is it better to have the VPN app from inside the VM or pass the host's through to the VM?
  2. If it doesn't make much of a difference, how can I go about passing the host's VPN to the VM?

In either scenario, I'd still like to keep the host's VPN active while being able to use the VM, which I currently cannot.

 

I'm following the settings on WLED's wiki for the WS2814 strip:

6-LED groups (24V) as one logical LED. Must be controlled as SK6812 type, color order: BRG, swap W and G (this option is available since WLED 0.14.0-b1)

But the lights just flicker like crazy. Switching WLED settings definitely does something, but not the intended effect.

Using the domestic automations controller. On the latest WLED firmware. LEDs are powered directly by a 24V 10A PSU. Originally I thought my data cable was too long but it still has all the issues plugged directly into the controller.

Has anybody got these strips working? Is the WLED wiki wrong?

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