overview for RedBauble

I wonder how it affected traffic in c/microblogmemes@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 36 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

While I don't remember his name, I remember there was a Darknet Diaries episode about the researcher who first investigated the problem. The episode was very thorough, I liked it a lot. I also don't remember the name of the episode, so I guess this comment is kinda useless

What Calendar and To Do solution do you recommend? in c/selfhosted@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 weeks ago

I second this

[Followup] Still working on that damn clogging issue! in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Also dumbest idea, have you tried a brand new spool of PLA? Just to exclude an incredibly wet filament. Because that can cause all sorts of problems

[Followup] Still working on that damn clogging issue! in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 5 points 1 month ago

Hello, I suggested heat creep in your last post, which didn't end up being the issue. I don't remember if anyone suggested it, but have you tried checking the bowden assembly, on the motor side? Whether the stepper works, or the gears wore down (I'm pointing towards this), or there are clogs somewhere in the mechanism, even some dust that accumulated where it shouldn't had. Or did you change settings like the current limit on the steppers? If that's controlled with a potentiometer on the main board, maybe it got turned down for some reason (if so, I'd try to understand why's that). I don't know how Klipper handles motor drivers where current limits are controlled in software, I know that Marlin has a dedicated submenu in the Configuration>Advanced Configuration. If you reflashed the firmware, maybe the settings where in the eeprom and did not get transfered over or got overwritten in the flashing process.

I remembered that on a couple different printers I had the same problem as you, and it came down to damaged/untightened nozzles (which you excluded already) or wore down gears or, on the printer I'm working on right now, too low current limits which made the stepper skip steps somewhat randomly

[Troubleshooting] Cannot fix a clogging issue. in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 month ago

That's exactly how I wpuld test heat creep. Maybe that's not it

[Troubleshooting] Cannot fix a clogging issue. in c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Since you've already excluded a damaged nozzle and other parts, I'm gonna suggest heatcreep.

Maybe the extruder fan broke, so heat creeping up the extruder and melting the filament before it should?

A picture of Etho's desk is circulating in c/hermitcraft@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 months ago

This is a picture etho himself published, it's included his hermitcraft s10 e5 video, when he talks about his setup with the other hermits for the ranking mumbo organized. Here

[Gastronomy] Your Ten-Step Guide to Cooking the Perfect Pasta, Including How to Salt the Water - for Italians here, is this accurate? in c/yurop@lemm.ee

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 2 points 2 months ago

The lid of the pot. Keeping the pot covered makes the water boil quicker

[O] 5 x NZB.cat in c/usenetinvites@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 months ago

I'd like one! :) DM Sent.

[O] 5 x NzbPlanet in c/usenetinvites@lemmy.world

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 months ago

I'd like one! :) DM Sent.

Paying for mullvad via mailed cash in c/piracy@lemmy.dbzer0.com

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 3 points 2 months ago

I did that some time ago. I just put the letter in an envelope, with just the receiver address on it, went to my local post office, paid for the service and the stamps, left them the letter and I was done.

3rd party Telegram app? in c/fdroid@lemmy.ml

[-] RedBauble@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 months ago

Nekogram X?

1

[Advice Request]: managing thermal pads for SMD components in custom PCB (sh.itjust.works)

submitted 4 months ago by RedBauble@sh.itjust.works to c/electronics@lemmy.ml

1 comments fedilink

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559

Hello everyone, I need some advice.

I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It's basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from here, the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver (datasheet). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn't that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?

Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don't have access to one and I don't know how that works with components on both sides.

I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and here's the git repo. If it is of any help, I'm planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)

Thanks!

4

[Advice Request]: managing thermal pads for SMD components in custom PCB (sh.itjust.works)

submitted 4 months ago by RedBauble@sh.itjust.works to c/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de

2 comments fedilink

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559

Hello everyone, I need some advice.

I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It's basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from here, the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver (datasheet). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn't that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?

Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don't have access to one and I don't know how that works with components on both sides.

I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and here's the git repo. If it is of any help, I'm planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)

Thanks!

10

[Advice Request]: managing thermal pads for SMD components in custom PCB (sh.itjust.works)

submitted 4 months ago by RedBauble@sh.itjust.works to c/ece@lemmy.world

10 comments fedilink

Hello everyone, I need some advice.

I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It's basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from here, the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver (datasheet). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn't that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?

Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don't have access to one and I don't know how that works with components on both sides.

I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and here's the git repo. If it is of any help, I'm planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)

Thanks!

39

Our parents gifted me and my sister the LEGO Doctor Who Set from "The Time of the Doctor" [gallery] (sh.itjust.works)

submitted 5 months ago by RedBauble@sh.itjust.works to c/lego@lemmy.world

4 comments fedilink

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/11620383