DreadPotato

I'm trying to calibrate linear advance on my anycubic kobra 2, using the guide in this video. I have calibrated my E-steps and flow rate for the extruder, and get the expected 100mm extrusion and expected wall thickness...so far, so good.

When i attempt the LA calibration to find my K value, i get the result shown in the image, with a serious deterioration of line quality when LA is enabled (K>0), and it seemingly gets worse as the K value increases.

I have used the tool from marlinfw.org to generate the g-code for testing K values.

I'm using an Anycubic Kobra 2 printer, it has a nice rubber pad at the back of the plate, which i assume is for wiping the nozze? However the printer profile Anycubic provides for prusa slicer doesn't use it at all, and actually has a fair amount of oozing because it heats the extruder first (which it then doesn't wipe away). So i decided i would add it myself. I'm completely new 3D printing, having only had the printer for a little over a week, so my solution may be a bit rough around the edges.

################ Start G-code with nozzle wipe and purge in back-left corner ################
G90                                        ; use absolute coordinates
M83                                        ; set extruder to relative mode
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]        ; set bed temp
G28                                        ; home all axes
G1 Z2                                      ; raise nozzle to 2mm
G92 E0                                     ; reset extruder position
G1 X80 Y240 F1500                          ; position nozzle right next to wipe pad
M104 S[first_layer_temperature]            ; set extruder temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]        ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature]            ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Z0                                      ; lower nozzle before wiping
G1 X90 F500                                ; wipe nozzle across pad in X direction
G1 Y235 F500                               ; wipe nozze in Y direction
G1 Z3                                      ; lift nozzle to 3mm
G1 X5 Y225 F3000                           ; move nozze to back-left corner of bed for purging
G1 Z0.28                                   ; lower nozzle to 0.28mm
G1 X45 E25 F500                            ; extrude 25mm of filament in a 40mm line
G92 E0                                     ; reset extruder position
G1 E-3 F3000                               ; quickly retract filament 3mm
G1 X90 F4000                               ; quickly move away from purge

The printer also end with the bed pulled all the way to the back, which I disliked since i would prefer it presented at the front for easy removal.

################ End G-code which presents the print for easy removal by pushing the bed fully forward ################
M104 S0                                    ; Extruder off 
M140 S0                                    ; Heatbed off 

G92 E0                                     ; reset extruder position
G1 E-5 F3000                               ; quickly retract filament 5mm
G91                                        ; use relative positioning
G1 Z1                                      ; lift nozzle 1mm
G28 X0 Y0                                  ; home X and Y axis
G1 X0 Y240 F3000                           ; move nozzle to the side and bed fully forward
M107                                       ; Fan off 
M84                                        ; disable stepper motors

How long do you have filament sitting "in the open"? I mostly print with a single filament roll at a time, and just leave it on the printer. A 1kg roll lasts me several weeks. For long time storage I keep it in an air tight box with disiccant pouches.

But how long can I let it sit before I should start storing it with disiccant and/or drying the filament before use?

I wanted to print a temperature tower, but the custom Gcode entered in prusa slicer doesn't seem to actually change the temperature of the nozzle? It just uses the temperature that's configured on "other layers" under the filament tab.

I'm attempting gaaZolee's temperature tower, using the custom Gcode supplied with it, in the "before layer change" part of custom Gcode in prusa slicer.

I just assembled my new Anycubic Kobra 2, performed an auto level and tried to print the 30min benchy file they include on the micro SD card that it ships with. No other modifications of adjustments made. It printed in pretty much exactly the 30min the advertised.

It's think it did OK, but with obvious issues. Since I'm new to the hobby I don't know exactly what to expect and how to identify print quality issues.

My benchy looks like this:

I am just getting back my sea legs, but apparently they're pretty shaky because I can't get my ubuntu torrent (no seriously, it is) to download. It never starts downloading and is stuck in "stalled". I've tried a number of things, but even with default settings it isn't starting. I'm using proton VPN on Linux Mint, but even with the VPN disabled it doesn't work.

last time I torrented was probably 15 years ago.

EDIT: i managed to get it working. As expected it was a Qbit config issue. First issue was a port forwarding issue. second one was the interface i connected it to. Apparently the interface named something with "vpn" is not the correct one to bind Qbit to, its a dummy created by the VPN that doesn't work. I had to select one named "tun0". If i just selected the regular physical interface I had IP leaks with the VPN enabled.

Are there any ways to avoid handing over your real phone number, besides having an extra SIM? Lots of places/services want SMS verification, but i rarely want to hand out my actual phone number.

I accidentally bought a tamper with a textured surface instead of just a smooth surface. Is one better than the other?

Do you aim to keep the brew time around 30sec regardless of shot size? If so, how do you go about that? Do you grind coarser? Tamp less hard?

If i keep my grind settings the same and tamp with (what feels like) the same force, my extraction time takes a lot longer when pulling a double shot (i use 16g) compared to single shot (8g), and using the same ratio.

Do you prefer bottomless or spouted portafilters?

I'm looking to replace the one on my machine, and I can't decide if I should go with a spouted like I have now, or try a bottomless. I don't really make two espressos at once, so the double spout is not a necessity for me.