this post was submitted on 27 Jun 2024
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Discussion of climate, how it is changing, activism around that, the politics, and the energy systems change we need in order to stabilize things.

As a starting point, the burning of fossil fuels, and to a lesser extent deforestation and release of methane are responsible for the warming in recent decades: Graph of temperature as observed with significant warming, and simulated without added greenhouse gases and other anthropogentic changes, which shows no significant warming

How much each change to the atmosphere has warmed the world: IPCC AR6 Figure 2 - Thee bar charts: first chart: how much each gas has warmed the world.  About 1C of total warming.  Second chart:  about 1.5C of total warming from well-mixed greenhouse gases, offset by 0.4C of cooling from aerosols and negligible influence from changes to solar output, volcanoes, and internal variability.  Third chart: about 1.25C of warming from CO2, 0.5C from methane, and a bunch more in small quantities from other gases.  About 0.5C of cooling with large error bars from SO2.

Recommended actions to cut greenhouse gas emissions in the near future:

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[–] marine_mustang@sh.itjust.works 16 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (1 children)
[–] lettruthout@lemmy.world 3 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Good job! Did you get a multi-year lock on the price paid for energy you put into the grid? Or were you effected by the rate structure change? My next step is to install solar thermal to eliminate the power needed to heat our water.

[–] marine_mustang@sh.itjust.works 7 points 4 months ago (2 children)

I’m in California, on NEM 2.0 for 8 more years unless NEM 3 gets rescinded. I also want to switch out my water heater to eliminate most of my fossil fuel burning, but instead of solar thermal I’ve been looking at heat pump water heaters. Much easier and cheaper to install, even with having to run a 240V line across the garage. If you currently have an electric resistance water heater, going with heat pump is a drop-in replacement and uses much, much less energy.

[–] chalupapocalypse@lemmy.world 1 points 4 months ago

Did you get the heat pump dryer and induction stove yet? I think there are federal rebates for all that including the water heater

[–] spidermanchild@sh.itjust.works 1 points 4 months ago (1 children)

There are 120V HPWHs now too. Depending on your water use and incoming water temps, it could be an even cheaper solution since you might avoid the wiring run.

[–] marine_mustang@sh.itjust.works 2 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (1 children)

Yeah, but they tend to be lower efficiency (UEF 3.0) and CA rebate program requires UEF 3.3 or higher, which apparently you can only get by switching to the higher voltage.

Edit: to clarify, I was referring to the California state rebate of $700 or $900 (depending on capacity) taken off the purchase price at checkout. The federal tax credit of 30% applies to the 120V drop-in replacement as well as the 240V models.

[–] spidermanchild@sh.itjust.works 2 points 4 months ago (1 children)

There are a few over 3.3 on the ESTAR product finder, and I think this is just a reflection that these products are new and there aren't that many out there. It's all a bit dumb since a 240V can be run in hybrid/high output/electric resistance mode and kill your efficiency, but the 120V are usually HP only and they have the exact same compressor since they only need like 800watts in HP mode, so there's no reason for their efficiency to be lower whatsoever. Do what you need to do to get that incentive money though.

[–] marine_mustang@sh.itjust.works 2 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago)

I checked Home Depot today and, oddly, all the Rheem 240V models are selling for less than the 120V models of the same capacity, even before rebates.

If I do get a 240V model, I certainly would just disable the resistance heating mode, which all the Rheem models (and probably all models, period) have the option to do.

[–] areyouevenreal@lemm.ee 5 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Why not just run a heat pump with the electricity you made? Probably more efficient overall.

[–] lettruthout@lemmy.world 1 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Solar module efficiency is what, about 20% at best? Thermal is more like 60%. This means less roof area needed on a house that doesn't have a lot of solar exposure.

Then there's cost. With the thermal system I'm planning there will be 40gal of potentially very hot water mixed down to the (lower) maximum temperature of my 40gal electric water heater, which will again be mixed down to the maximum temperature allowed for domestic use. In effect the design will be one battery feeding into another. 'Seems cheaper than lithium batteries, and since this will be a passive system, no controller will be needed.

[–] spidermanchild@sh.itjust.works 3 points 4 months ago

You also have to deal with a ton of extra plumbing and envelope penetrations, and the space the thermal solar collector takes up doesn't fit nicely with a solar PV array either. A HPWH might use 800 kWh/year, so thats like less than two 400+ W panels to cover all your water heating. I think thermal solar is fine tech and there are certainly situations where it makes sense (perhaps yours) but overwhelmingly HPWH is more cost effective and simpler.

[–] areyouevenreal@lemm.ee -1 points 4 months ago

Solar module efficiency is what, about 20% at best? Thermal is more like 60%. This means less roof area needed on a house that doesn't have a lot of solar exposure.

So anything above a CoP of 3 and you need less area. That's pretty doable these days. Maybe read up on how heat pumps work first before making assertions.

Also you can totally store hot water from a heat pump.

The main disadvantage is cost and complexity.