3DPrinting

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3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

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[Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. (lemmy.world)

submitted 6 months ago by papalonian@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

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Hi guys. Please check my previous post for any background questions, I don't have it in me to go over everything again.

Long story short, I was having issues with clogging that were being caused by my hotend not reaching the reported temp. After a few days of troubleshooting and diagnosing the motherboard and Klipper settings, I gave up and decided the motherboard was faulty (even though I could not perform any tests to determine in) and bought an SKR mini. I got that all set up, and the printer has been working flawlessly since then.

Until now.

Same exact problem; one print goes perfectly fine, next print, failing to extrude by the 4th layer. I removed the clog, restarted the print, now can't even extrude the priming line. Fearing the worst, I disassemble the hotend, try hand feeding filament, and once again I am unable to push more than a few centimeters through before it gets clogged up. A probe thermometer reads ~160C while Klipper reports 200C.

What could possibly be happening here? The board is an aftermarket replacement from a completely different company, so I doubt it's a recurring manufacturer defect, but I have no idea what else can be causing this.

At this point I've spent so much time and money trying to fix this printer that I could almost buy a new one, but at this point I'm not convinced even that would solve the problem.

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[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 1 points 6 months ago

I use a version of Hartk's Stealthburner PCB on my voron and cludged an afterburner tool head onto my franken mk3s. They're both breakout PCBs, the stealthburner one to my knowledge is passthrough, afterburner one has a thermistor and led on it for chamber temps and a hotend activity led. Totally optional and what you've done already is probably the more frequent things I'd change anyhow. There are fancier tool head boards, they're effectively their own MCUs afaik that communicate via canbus, with those ones you're running very few wires, something I'm thinking about but haven't done yet

For me, they reduced the amount of wiring I needed to run to the hotend and make it super easy to swap components, as I said, I've damaged things unintentionally before (I'll say ADHD is contributing to that) so it's really handy. Keeps the wiring neater as well, or at least gives you a place to manage them.