3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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It depends more on how much time you want to spend on post processing and how detailed the part is. Teller layers means more time spent filling and smoothing.
You can print at .2 layer height with a .6 noz and benefit from a thicker line width, giving you stronger parts but the overall time to print will still be similar compared to a .4 noz.
I agree with you mostly, but I wouldnt say simmilar time even though it can be even slower. 0.6 nozzle can usually print much wider lines (again less details) and therefore much faster. It depends on settings and model ofc, but I go for bigger nozzle just to increase line width and layer height (to speed up print by a lot!).
Line width can also be changed. Depending on the nozzle shape, you can print 0.5-0.6 mm wide lines using 0.4 nozzle without ruining the quality (depends on the model ofc). There are some best practice values for nozzle size / line width / layer height ratios, but no one can stop you from experimenting.
To increase strength, its true you want wider lines, but there are many other important factors like filament type, print orientation, temperature, speed, etc.
In general, bigger nozzle gives lower resolution and faster print time. But dont forget thermal limit of your hotend (max flow). 0.8 nozzle might not provide higher speed compared to 0.6 if you are printing fast and hitting your hotend limit already. Swapping nozzles is quick and easy on most printers. They are cheap and I think everyone should try different nozzle sizes, dont take that freedom from yourself 😉. For example, you can reduce XY speeds and still print much faster with bigger nozzle. For real size helmets I wouldnt use nothing smaller than 0.6 mm just because of print time
OP wasn't asking about layer height, only nozzle diameter.
They're interrelated, and important to talk about together in this context. Sometimes it's more useful to look at what the asker is trying to accomplish than simply answering exactly what was asked.