3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
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It all depends on what you're looking to improve in the printer.
Like already said klipper is probably the biggest upgrade possible but there are some other nice to haves:
Textured Pei sheet Sillicone spacer instead of leveling springs Bi metal heatbreak (increase safe max temp) Capricorn PTFE tube for less drag in Bowden setup
I would eventually like to go to direct drive and potentially add another extruder at some point so I can print in multiple colors and print models that require supports using a different filament like PVA.
Basically looking to overhaul it and give it a bit more functionality.
I already have a raspberry pi with octoprint on it and a camera with remote access so I can check on it from time to time or send prints to it without the need to bother with the SD card.
I will definitely look into the things you mentioned also. I've got aftermarket springs on it already.
I swapped to direct drive myself. Went with the Creality Sprite Pro since I already had mounted a CR touch to my print head.I thought it made the most sense for interoperability.
I actually went ahead and got a Sprite Neo and put it on the other day, installed Klipper after digging around for a printer.cfg for the Max Neo and finally finding one.
Now I'm just going through making sure everything is configured, levelled, and working properly as I have time.
If you have a filament runout sensor, the klipper default settings aren't great. If the sensor activates, the printer shuts down after about an hour, losing your home position. With a part on the bed, you can't re-home, so it's a wasted print.
The mesh leveling isn't automatic either. You might want to add either auto-load your default mesh leveling if you always use the same print surface, or put mesh leveling codes in the starting G-code section of your slicer.
I ran the pressure advance tuning and found that I needed a ton of pressure advance. My prints turned out much better.
I also got improvements by reducing the allowable deviation in the slicer (G-code files get much bigger, though), and I load files as STEP files directly in Prusaslicer. STL doesn't have curves, it's a series of planes. STEP files have geometric primitives and can have curves.