3DPrinting

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Advice choosing my next 3d printer (sh.itjust.works)

submitted 2 months ago by andyspam@sh.itjust.works to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

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I am looking to get a new 3d printer. I've had an ender 3 V2 for a few years. While I've been able to get many excellent prints out of it, I'm looking for a printer for my new apartment that will require a little less tinkering and troubleshooting. I'm pretty experienced with the nuances of 3d printing, and don't mind taking things apart and fixing things(but not every time I wanna use the thing). Realistically I'll be printing mostly PLA and PETG, but it would be nice to have the option of trying out other higher strength filaments, and I'd like to have an enclosure to play with ABS eventually.

I prefer to spend around $500. I've been eying up the Bambu P1S with the AMS but I really don't think I can afford almost $1000 right now. If it's really worth it, I can pull it off. The Bambu a1 is also interesting, but id prefer to have a core-xy with an enclosure.

I've been looking at the flashforge 5m or 5m pro, as well as creality k1c. Those prices are way more attractive. Or perhaps qidi?

All the choices and different technologies on the market now are a little bit overwhelming, and I don't want to be disappointed in my purchase. I'll mostly be using it to print random things for around the house and for electronics projects.

Any thoughts or recommendations are welcome, thank you!

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[–] phrogpilot73@lemmy.world 4 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast.

My tuned/reliable profile (on Prusaslicer) on the Ender 3v2 was 40-60 mm/s and acceleration 200 mm/s^2. The stock profile (on Orca) for the SV08 is 200-300 mm/s and acceleration of 20000 mm/s^2. That's probably why such a dramatic speed increase.

Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this.

The auto z-offset on the SV08 heats the bed to 65, then does a QGL, followed by cleaning the nozzle, then the z-offset calibration (using the inductive probe on both the bed and the z-offset probe), followed by a bed mesh, then a test print. Most of what I've read is that the heater is not the most efficient at heating the bed up completely. That's why everyone (Sovol included) recommend heat soaking for the initial z-offset. After I did that, I've had no problems with first layers.