Code and hardware for the project can be found here https://github.com/v1605/tapto-floppy
What are the odds he even pays out?
If they do, are they competitive? Or are they doing the same thing. It could also be like car dealerships in certain states, you're not allowed to just open one within x miles of another (though that refers to more of the same brand). Wouldn't surprise me if they can't have dealerships near each other due to backwards legislation.
Exactly why John Deer should not be allowed to do this. Any threat to the food supply should be considered a national security risk.
The real question is what other options do farms have? Let's say their tracker breaks down and repair is no longer an option. How many other manufacturers are making the type of equipment they need? And how expensive would it be to enter that market to compete? To me it seems like John Deer has a monopoly and is exploiting it.
Depends but a nice condition N64 with the cables and expansion pak is probably about $100 without a controller. If you plan on connecting it to a modern TV, you need a decent scaler that can do Svideo/composite, so another $60 for the RAD2X. You even can complicate it more by throwing in cheaper RGB mods if you have a compatible system but that adds probably around $60 if you can't do it yourself.
Their price point is very competitive, especially considering its plug and play.
It was probably a disk copier. Here is a video that goes over how those work. https://youtu.be/MP9YR4BXrzA?si=VTgIynQI2fjaXjxE
I'm not sure if the SNAC interface could support something like a 34 pin floppy drive without major changes to the cores themselves.
Now the rotary phone idea...
Yes because it is actually reading the disk. I even move the tracks a little between reads so it makes some more noise.
It's a FPGA, open source, emulation device that can play tons of different retro consoles, computers, and arcade machines.
https://mister-devel.github.io/MkDocs_MiSTer/
There are various vendors that you can get kits from.
It's an adapter that you can build up yourself so that you can launch games on your Mister/TapTo device via a floppy disc. There are definitely dozens of us that wanted this!
TapTo goal is to be cross platform (launch games on the PC and the Mister). With this you could launch a steam game via a CD if you wanted for some extra fun on modern systems (plus the PS1 core on mister looks so nice).
I've written some code to interface with a floppy drive because it's just fun to launch games that way.
Some background, I originally removed the chips from the board on the left for a Pocket Color Build. It's original fault was no power, which turned out to be a dirty power switch and corroded battery contacts.
The new board had signs of corrosion under the solder mask and previous work (bent ram pins and bridges on the cpu). I decided to move the chips on the other instead of trying to restore the traces. Soldering all went well, until my hand slipped while testing if the connections were solid. One of the pins (bottom left) is pretty bent and the pad on the end was partially lifted.
I was able to heat all those back up and confirm no bridges and the pads are connected. Booted up a quick game to test a screen, sounds and all the buttons. Everything is working.
Moral of the story, be careful and don't put too much pressure on those pins.
This was my first attempt doing a trace repair on a HDMI port. Seems like everything seems to be working after replacing those caps as well. Played through the tutorial of gears 5 with no issues.
What I've tested:
- Playing downloaded game
- Playing a Blu-ray
- Playing on a 4k TV and 1440 monitor. This one the auto detect preferred 120hz 1080p but manually selecting resolution works great.
What I've learned:
- Wired all the pads before soldering the port. I attached the front wires after the port was soldered. Should have just done them all.
- A cheap grinding pen is so much easier to use than a knife to expose the traces.
- 0201 are very hard to work with.
Picked up this Series X to do a trace repair for the hdmi, turns out 2 caps were ripped off the board as well. The one was still partially connected and easy to bodge. The second circled is missing. I'm curious if anyone knows the replacement value.
The similar caps in the area all read between 18.6 to 19.6 uf when out of circuit, so it could be a few values (though no guarantee this cap wasn't unique and completely different).
. 3 MBC1, 1 MBC3, and 1 MBC30
I happen to have a board from my FunnyPlaying build so I figured I'd give it a shot. Used enamel wire to make the button contacts and got 3.3v from the cart slot. I also removed the caps as to not power any circuits that didn't need (CPU and RAM were donors to the other board). Power is provided via AA batteries.
Still very much a work in progress but it works reasonably well (about 8ms of lag). I want to ultimately create an easier to install PCB rather than the perfboard I used.
Took a badly marginal gba pcb and transplanted the CPU and RAM into this new motherboard. The soldering was a nice challenge but I had an issue with the cart slot. A pin was bent, so had to fix that before games would boot. Very happy with the result. I've uploaded a picture of the back of the shell as well. https://imgur.com/a/opXFA5B
Also in person, the plastic is not cloudy at all. The motherboard is here https://funnyplaying.com/products/gba-custom-upgraded-motherboard-replacement?variant=40990162059325
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/13199828
Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete.
Links to all the models I used:
https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517
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No boot screen, just a black screen with no audio