Haha, the board won‘t win any prices for sure. But for a first try I‘m still very happy.
Yes exactly. It checks the weather forecast however so it doesn’t water when it‘s raining. This way I don’t have to refill the canister too often. A better way would be to attach moisture sensors to the plants, but I don’t like having to change batteries constantly. This is a very simple solution but it works for me.
I just printed the design on a glossy paper and used an iron to transfer the toner from the paper onto the pcb (last image). The toner protects the underlying copper in the etching process, so only the free copper gets etched away. I used Na2S2O8 for etching.
Yes UV is so much nicer, I also use this method now when I‘m not ordering online.
As I don‘t have a water outlet on my balcony I use a water tank and a pump for watering my strawberries. I developed a controller for the pump which runs natively on Apple Homekit but I‘d like to change it to Matter and Threads in the future.
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/21224425
This was my first try developing my own pcb with the toner transfer method. I did this project many years back but it works perfectly to this day.
It filters an audio signal and drives led strips so they pulsate to the beat of a song.
This was my first try developing my own pcb with the toner transfer method. I did this project many years back but it works perfectly to this day.
It filters an audio signal and drives led strips so they pulsate to the beat of a song.
Got another shot at C/2023 A3.
Ah ok, so I assumed you registered all your light frames onto your stars as your stars look very sharp. And that’s the normal way for every astro image you would normally do. A comet however moves so fast that its position changes even in the short time frame were you took the images.
So after registering all the images with the stars pattern you want to make a second registration were you mark the position of the comet on the first frame and on the last frame. With that now all images are aligned onto the comet and now the stars appear to move in the background. As your stars look so sharp I assumed you didn’t make the second registration. In DSS there is a comet mode for that but I haven’t worked with that so I can’t tell you about the workflow with that program.
Hope that helped in any way!
I do not have much experience with DSS, as far as I know the result should be very similar. „Lights“ is the term for a single exposure. The technique is basically the same no matter which software you use.
But if you have Siril specific questions feel free to drop any questions :)
It‘s hard to tell from your image, bit it appears you can even get a bit more details if you register your lights onto the comet itself and then stack all the images. I used Siril for the two step registration process.
But nice image nonetheless!
Cool thank you!
Lets see what the next days will bring. As the comet rises higher maybe it will be even more visible.
Your image looks not to bad either. On my phone the comet looked the same like yours.
We got extremely lucky and got a tiny window of cloudless sky in an never ending sequence of cloudy nights. Also the conditions were a nightmare with severe light pollution and lights shining directly at our equipment.
And maybe somebody here can explain to us what the ionized gas is that 'shoots out‘ in front of the comet?
Also do the colours seem to be correct? We tried our best at background extraction and maintaining the true colour, but the raw data was of poor quality. From images of other comets the dust tails normally seems to have a yellow/orange colour and only the plasma tail is blue.
Edit: found the answer to the Anti-tail. It shows the trail of dust were the comet has traveled, which appears to come out at the opposing side because of earths angle relative to the comet and sun.
Equipment:
Images:
Processing:
More details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202996/deep_sky/ngc-1456/pleiades/by-maxi_franzi
We really struggled to combine RGB with Ha. For our first try at continuum subtraction however we are very pleased.
Equipment:
Images:
Processing:
Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202859/deep_sky/ngc-206/m31-andromeda/by-maxi_franzi
M31 shot only in Ha and OIII.
Equipment:
Images:
Processing:
We shoot this image over two nights to reveal the faint structures of the veil nebula complex.
Shot with a 135mm lens and a Fuji X-T5.
We finally got two clear nights and although the moon was really bright, this target came out quite well due to the narrowband filter.
Equipment:
Images:
Editing:
Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/198606/deep_sky/ngc-6974/veil-nebula-complex/by-maxi_franzi
I found this design and it fitted my need perfectly. It is a mount for a very popular camera lens used in astrophotography. It not only functions as a weight relief for the camera but also allows to rotate the field of view. Moreover it is possible to focus the lens with the installation of a stepper motor, which will be the next step.
The single parts are screwed together with the help of threaded heat inserts. Just to make sure they are also glued together with epoxy, as the mount really needs to hold up. The screws are locked with Loctite.
Edit: Link to the mount (not my design): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099113
Interesting, how much power does the laser have to need to be able to burn the paint?