this post was submitted on 15 Oct 2024
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I wanted to share my experience with waxing my bike chains.

I was resistant to waxing my chains because it seems that a lot of people felt it was "too much work".

But having to constantly clean black shit off my chains after every ride, then spend time degreasing and re-lubing, I figured I'd try waxing when I got my gravel bike.

Now, thousands of KM later and having converted all three bikes to waxed, there's no way I'd go back. The time saved could be measured in hours per month.

First, the biggest complaint is chain prep. Yeah, regardless if you're waxing or not, you'll need to prep a new chain by removing the factory grease. With waxed, you do this once, and no more worrying about degreasing ever again. Make like easy and get Silca's chain stripper, and it's a 10 minute, one-step process.

Ongoing chain maintenance couldn't be easier. After every ride, give the chain a quick wipe (or not). My chain stays clean, even after a 200 km ride.

And if you ride in wet or dirty conditions? Guess what, you're in for a LOT of work if you lube your chain. With waxed, keep a second (or third) chain ready to go, and you just swap it out (10 seconds of effort). Take the dirty chain, give it a wipe if it's only been wet, or pour boiled water onto it if you want to "reset" the chain to bare metal. Then drop it into the waxing pot for a re-wax. You don't have to stand at the pot, so there's no real time commitment here. I've spent more time completely dirtying large microfiber cloths trying to get my chain "clean" when lubed (hint: it's never clean if you use a wet lube, not without solvents and an ultrasonic cleaner).

For actual immersion wax, I do it every 1000 km (sooner than you need to), and use a drip wax every 200 - 250 km to keep things fresh.

Honestly, wax is easier, cleaner, and takes less time to maintain vs wet lube.

The only downsides? The initial cost to get started. But this is offset by not having to replace chains or other components prematurely. You actually save money in the long-term when using waxed chains.

Some might argue that "you can't run waxed chains in muddy or constantly rainy conditions". Well, at the same time, your wet lube isn't really helping matters in those situations, either. Waxed is still better, and you can swap chains much faster than you can clean the grinding paste from a wet lubed chain.

Who would I not recommend waxed chains to? Someone who rarely uses their bike. Drip lube will be "good enough" in those cases. But anyone else would benefit from waxing their chain.

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[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 34 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (2 children)

You know what's even easier? Forgetting to lube your chain for a while. Then avoid lubing it out of shame to face your failure. Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.*

* Might require extra strong ebike-specific chains like KMC X11e EPT

[–] lud@lemm.ee 28 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Even easier is not caring or even knowing that you are supposed to do anything.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 5 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (3 children)

Ah, you must be one of those cyclists I can hear a mile away! SQUEAK, SQUEAK, SQUEAK!! 😂

[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 12 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

Another surprising thing for me is that at no point did it start making shameful noises.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 7 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Plot twist: You're actually using a carbon belt drive. 😆

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 6 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

7 years and counting. Have never had any maintenance on my belt. The Alfine 11 has had an oil change though.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Sounds like a dream! I'm sure at some point I'll go with a belt drive. For now, I'm quite content with a low-maintenance chain drivetrain. Especially for their ubiquity, lower cost, and ease of repair while out in the middle of nowhere. LOL

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

It's been very easy. Although I will say my use case is a 9km urban commute. Any issues I can jump on a train to the local bike shop.

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 2 weeks ago

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

I don't think it's that difficult, at least not from the videos I've seen. But it certainly would be a challenge if you weren't in a comfortable area to do the work.

[–] markstos@lemmy.world 4 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Or they are Dutch and have a fully-enclosed chain that never gets wet or dirty.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 2 weeks ago

One thing I've done with my winter bike is added a front fender extender (DIY), which prevents any spray from hitting the front chainrings, chain, or down tube. Last year, it was a total game changer. The only thing I couldn't really help with was spray from the rear fender, which drips downwards onto the chain and cassette.

I don't even think a Dutch-style chain guard would help prevent contamination from the rear cassette getting drenched.

But the best "winter bike" is one with an internal gear hub, and a belt drive. And an aluminum frame. Unless you really abuse the hell out of it, there should be very little to worry about.

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[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.

How many miles/km?

Yes, good chains last longer. But good waxed chains can outlive the life of some bikes (20,000km on a waxed chain is not unheard of). And it preserves the components at the same time.

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[–] superkret@feddit.org 18 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Counter-point: Here's how I lube my chain.

Whenever the squeaking annoys me too much, I apply some lube.
Done.

[–] captainlezbian@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Same. When it rusts I replace it

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[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Be sure that you're checking your chain for wear... and your cassette... and chainrings. That approach might work well for some, but squeaking is already a sign that wear has been occuring.

[–] ContrarianTrail@lemm.ee 9 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I don't see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we're talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

For me, my bike is to be used and abused. Yeah maybe my chain and cassette wears faster than with a proper maintenance but I also just keep riding way past that untill it effectively becomes unuseable. My chain is already stretched to the point I'm supposed to replace it and there's several teeth missing on my rear cassette but I notice no difference in performance. The shifting is going to be more or less shit either way because a new derailleur stays straight on my use for about 3 days. I've already mastered the trail-side derailleur adjustment by grabbing it with bare hands and bending it straight(er)

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 week ago

I don’t see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we’re talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

Plenty of reasons, even when you acknowledge that parts will eventually need to be replaced:

  • Convenience.
  • Quieter ride.
  • Cleaner.
  • No solvents when you need to really clean the chain.
  • Saves a LOT of money, especially when some newer cassettes are $300+, chains up to $100, etc. But even in my older bike, where the components are cheap, I'd rather not be spending money sooner and more often.
  • As with the above point, components last significantly longer, and work better for longer (i.e. better shifting, no chain skipping, etc.).
  • If you count watts, waxing will save them.
  • Because you aren't replacing components as often, this has environmental benefits, too.

I'm not a casual rider, so I want my bikes to run smoothly and with as little effort to maintain as possible. For me, waxing has been a blessing.

[–] Mr_Blott@feddit.uk 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

My chain checklist -

Have I put oil on the chain this decade? Y/N

Done!

[–] markstos@lemmy.world 13 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

You lost me at 10-second chain swaps and boiling water.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 8 points 2 weeks ago

You lost me at 10-second chain swaps

Wipperman connex master links. No tools required. Can be reused "for the life of the chain". Takes a second to remove and re-connect. 10 second chain swap!

and boiling water.

Unlike with traditional bike chain lube, which require some rather harsh solvents to remove. Wax can be boiled off the chain when needed. You can go back to bare metal on a waxed chain without any solvents.

[–] BCsven@lemmy.ca 4 points 2 weeks ago

Not sure if there is a lighter weight version, but I used to run wax on motorcyles, it came as a spray can and went on almost like a clear plastic coating. Game changer for chain maintenance

[–] Fiivemacs@lemmy.ca 11 points 2 weeks ago

Key and Peele would be proud of your use on the chain wax

[–] allthelolcats@lemmy.world 7 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Wow! Thanks for putting up this super informative post and following through so many comments. I love using a waxed chain and I think it’s definitely hard for people to jump to when their bike maintenance is essentially zero. I run wet lube on one bike for wet weather riding (like >50% of the year) so I know both sides pretty well. The wax chain is so much easier to clean and maintain it’s crazy.

It’ll be hard to convert anyone that just lets their bike run into the ground before they start taking care of it, but they’re also probably on bikes that are sub $500 and aren’t looking for efficiencies or endurance performance.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 week ago (3 children)

It’ll be hard to convert anyone that just lets their bike run into the ground before they start taking care of it, but they’re also probably on bikes that are sub $500 and aren’t looking for efficiencies or endurance performance.

I think that's probably pretty accurate. If I had a bike kicking around that I may or may not use, I don't even think I'd be waxing that chain.

I also think that a good number of people are simply scared away by "all the work" that goes into waxing.

I'm almost looking forward to the winter, where I can really compare my experience between wax and wet lube.

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[–] Mango@lemmy.world 7 points 1 week ago

Neat! I just blast that shit with some WD-40 which isn't even lube and go on my merry way!

[–] AchtungDrempels@lemmy.world 6 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I don't like maintaining my bike much and the waxing seems like it's something for people that do.

Just using a little bit of oil holds fine for a pretty long time for me, if I don't ride in the rain a lot. I also never degrease my chain, I'll wipe it off with rug and that's it. And I feel like the nasty black chain is mostly a thing if you used too much oil? I am happy with my chain wear and actually surprised for how long it stays fine.

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[–] JillyB@beehaw.org 5 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I prefer belt drive with a sealed internal geared hub. It's not for everyone or every situation but it's nice riding in the wet and just putting the bike away after without thinking about cleaning and lubrication

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[–] c0smokram3r@midwest.social 4 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Wow, this is super insightful! Thanks! Been wondering about waxing chains. We’re getting into our wet season so this is definitely piquing my curiosity once again.

[–] iconherder@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago

I just waxed the chain on my gravel bike and it’s going great so far. Maybe time to consider the mountain bikes. I do spend a lot of time lubing chains.

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[–] beek@beehaw.org 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

The SILCA strip chip does a great job of eliminating the need for chain prep. Worth the extra cost, if you don’t want to mess around with harsh chemicals.

Waxed chains are the bees knees. I’ll never go back to using lube.

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[–] Geometrinen_Gepardi@sopuli.xyz 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I used to thin paraffin wax with xylene just enough to make a solution that stays liquid and apply it to the chain from an old chain oil dripper bottle. If applied liberally it flushes out what little dirt has accumulated on the chain and after a quick wipe you're done. The xylene evaporates leaving you with a waxed chain.

I used dry lubes for a while too but found the homemade wax liquid the most trouble-free option.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago

Sounds like you made a DIY version of a commercial drip wax. I use Silca's drip wax, and I'm getting really good value out of it, so I'm not motivated enough to try something homemade. But I'm glad it works for you, and no doubt is better than most other lubes!

[–] Grass@sh.itjust.works 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

I even use waxed chain through salt and snow. Hosed off once I get to work then compressed air to get the water off. Home side I hose it off then detach it and swish it in a tub of isopropyl and the next chain in the rotation goes on.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

This will be my first winter with waxed chains. My only real concern is the drip wax treatments between immersion wax. Since I don't bring my bikes inside where it's warm, I think it would be too cold to apply drip wax. I think we have many below zero days, I'll probably just keep rotating immersion waxed chains until it warms up.

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[–] bitwolf@lemmy.one 3 points 1 week ago (3 children)

How do you melt the initial wax? Watching videos people use crockpots.

Doesn't that ruin the pot? Do you have a dedicated pot for the wax?

[–] Travelator@thelemmy.club 4 points 1 week ago

Thrift stores are full of old crock pots. We used to get them for candle making.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

If you use Silcas hot melt, then you can actually just boil the bag and put the chain in there. I haven't used it like that, but instead just got an inexpensive slow cooker (most are <$25 or nearly free if second hand).

It doesn't really "ruin" the pot, but I would dedicate it to wax only.

Interestingly enough, I've discovered wax melting pots designed specifically for melting waxes (i.e. for candle making), and while they might be a little more expensive than a slow cooker, they offer finer temperature control and may be slightly more convenient to use. With a cheap slow cooker, I'm quite happy!

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[–] Noobnarski@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I just use some cheapo liquid chain wax on my bike and I dont clean my chain very often, I just put some new wax on the chain when it gets just even slightly squeaky. I have noticed that almost no dirt stays on the drivetrain with wax, it just falls off after a few km. Everything stuck to the chain when using oil, so its an improvement and I dont spend nearly as much effort on it as you do.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 week ago

Yup! Even drip wax will give better results vs. wet lube. The cleanliness blows me away every time!

I was at a group ride and showed some of the guys how clean the chain was... wiped it with my bare hands, and nothing. That was after like 60km of riding! LOL

[–] thatsnothowyoudoit@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago (5 children)

Started with wet wax five years ago. Two years ago migrated to immersion waxing.

I do 5-10 chains at a time. It takes all of 15 minutes.

Then I wet wax between immersion waxing sessions.

Chains last a wildly long time and the time saved in between rides is incredible. Not to mention how clean all other parts stay.

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