this post was submitted on 29 Jan 2024
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Woodworking
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Thanks for the input. To simplify we're going with straight edges (I think it'll look classier too) and I am going to put some dowels in for a bit of additional joinery strength. See pics attached for some drawings. Also I think technically this is just an angled bridle joint, not a half-lap bridle joint.
Now I have a further Q. And that is "how does one cut the inside of the outer(!!) bridle, on an angle to accurately match the taper?" (see the triangle with text labels on the drawing). The offset from horizontal is about 2.5 degrees due to the tapered nature of the horizontal legs.
You don't actually need to continue your taper through the bridle joint; just start your taper behind the joint.
Yes, I reached a similar conclusion as well. Not sure if that makes it simpler or more complex. Time will tell!
I’m not sure about the dowels
The bridle joint will want to pivot and the desk acts as a big lever exerting a lot of force onto that joint with a large force multiplier.
It might be worth upgrading the dowels to steel bolts, but I don’t know a lot about the strength of wood under these forces.
If the dowel is 1” In and the Z is 48” long (no idea if that’s close), it exerts 48x the desk weight on to the dowels. You look at oak, a desk top of 50lb, a 1” dowel would be at over twice its breaking point. Two dowels and glue in the joint would will help, but steel bolts will have a much higher rating against shear here.
All of this is napkin math, and I’m not an expert at all here.
Your napkin math is good though. Excellent points thank you!