ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/
view the rest of the comments
Ahh, the wonderful world of troubleshooting! I would first check the micro controller. Unplug all the matrix wires from it. Plug it n and use a paperclip or metal tweezers to short each of the i/o pins assigned to the matrix (rows to columns) to generate key presses. If it generates all the proper key presses, then it's not the controller. If some are missing, then try again to rule out user error, is still no go, then it's either the controller is bad, or your firmware is bad. Check to see the firmware looks good to rule out which. Next check your diodes, makes sure they are all oriented in the same direction. If not, then it time to de-solder and fix. You can also check to see if there are any broken solder joints in your wiring, fixing any that look broken. If they are then you can carefully reattach your wires, double checking that you're putting therm where they're supposed to go. Then plug in and use the tweezer method on the hotswap sockets. If that works, then test the keys, sometimes the pins on the switches bend, instead of going into the socket. Pull the switch, and straighten the pin (or replace switch) I hope you find the issue and get your board up and running.
That's a neat trick with manually shorting each of the pins on the controller board, I'll be sure to remember that.