3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
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Just note that with Bambu printers about past data collection practices and their in general mid to atrocious after-sales support. If this doesn't deter you, then go ahead and get one.
I do a lot of my functional parts in ABS, ASA though printing such material may be difficult on an open-air machine. The two obvious choices will generally be PLA or PETG. PLA is one of the most common printed materials, and is fairly balanced in material strength. PETG parts are more likely to permanently deform heavily before fully snapping, as well as they have a but more temperature resistance than PLA. Additionally most PETG plastics hold up decently well to UV, often making them more suitable for parts that need to be outdoors.
PLA takes not much consideration on surface to print, as most printers come with a smooth PEI build sheet by default. It will however need more cooling than printing with PETG at equivalent speeds. If you use a PEI sheet for PETG, make sure it is textured. You will destroy a smooth sheet if it doesn't have some kind of release coating to lower its adhesive properties to PETG.
There is no guarantee for spools of filament to actually arrive dry, so a filament dryer isn't a bad idea. I don't have any particular recommendations for a good filament dryer. I have a Filadryer S2 from Sunlu, but am not impressed by it.
Ugh I didn't even think about that, the data collecting. After some research I think I should be able to mitigate that with lan only mode or just some firewall rules or pihole blocking. Thank you for the link!
I was looking at the sunlu s1 and s2 for a filament dryer. The s2 sounds kinda glitchy but functional, and the biggest complaint of the s1 seems to be the 55C max temp.
If my humidity is usually 20% or lower where I live is it likely I can just skip a filament dryer for now?
Yeah, you probably can since it appears you live in the desert. It's not like the filament is going to magic up water that's not there.
I'm somewhere that is more like 40%, and I don't have the endless wet-filament-problems some people have but I'm also printing just PLA and PETG which aren't really the filaments most impacted by a little bit of wet.
Some filament brands are more sensitive to moisture than others for example devil design PETG took 6 months to moisten ,but prusament did it in like two weeks.