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Buy a 1972 Volkswagen Bus then upgrade it ! 

1. V6 Engine: $4,000–$6,000, depending on whether it’s new or used and its performance level.
2. Automatic Transmission: $2,500–$4,000 for a compatible unit, including modifications and installation.
3. Racing Parts: $2,000–$5,000 for high-performance suspension, brakes, and axles.
4. Cooling System Upgrade: $500–$1,000 for a new radiator, cooling fans, and associated components.
5. Custom Fabrication and Labor: $5,000–$10,000 for custom mounts, wiring, and other modifications.
6. Miscellaneous: $1,000–$2,000 for additional costs like updated fuel system components and potential regulatory compliance.

Total Estimated Cost: $15,000–$28,000 or more

1. Dashboard Upgrade:
2. • Custom Dash: Replacing or modifying the dashboard to fit modern gauges and controls can be complex. You might need a custom-made dash or an aftermarket replacement that fits your aesthetic and functional requirements.
   • Costs: $500–$2,000, depending on customization, materials, and whether you do it yourself or have it professionally installed. Modern Radio and Infotainment System:
3. • Head Unit: Modern head units with features like Bluetooth, GPS, and touchscreens can be installed. You may need a custom dash kit to fit the new radio.
   • Installation: Professional installation ensures proper integration with the vehicle’s electrical system and aesthetics.
   • Costs: $300–$1,500 for a high-end head unit and installation. Gauges and Controls:
4. • Digital Gauges: Upgrading to digital gauges or a modern gauge cluster can enhance functionality and appearance. Custom mounts may be required.
   • Costs: $500–$1,500, depending on the type and brand of gauges. Wiring and Integration:
   • Wiring: Modern systems might require new wiring or adapters, especially if integrating with advanced features like climate control.
   • Costs: $200–$800 for wiring and integration, depending on complexity.

Total Estimated Cost: $1,000–$5,800 or more

1. AWD Conversion Kit: There are few aftermarket conversion kits available for classic VW buses, and they often require significant modification.
2. • Costs: $5,000–$10,000 for the kit and related parts. Custom Fabrication: Modifying the chassis, drivetrain, and possibly the suspension to accommodate AWD requires custom work.
3. • Costs: $5,000–$10,000 for custom fabrication and installation. Additional Components: This includes front differentials, driveshafts, and possibly upgraded axles.
4. • Costs: $2,000–$5,000 depending on components and integration. Labor: Professional installation and tuning to ensure the system functions properly.
   • Costs: $3,000–$6,000 for labor.

Total Estimated Cost: $15,000–$31,000 or more

Hey so I was hoping to possibly get some upgrades for my car in the future but I don't really know where to start.

I was wondering if I could get a V6 or some real fast engine to fit. Then I'd get the Straight Piped to Silent Mod for the exhaust. I didn't know if there was anything else I needed to add to make everything flow perfectly or that would drastically improve my speed and control.

I could also upgrade the whole interior to have very fancy digital gauges. Maybe something like this photo. While if by then we have an AI system that could act as a censor for the environment around me. Like if I'm changing lanes it'll let me know if I'm good or whatever. It will also let me know if there are police nearby and how close they are getting so I can slow down if I need to. While I have very good racing tires and idk if they make them spike proof?

Any suggestions would be amazing just looking to make my car absolutely perfect. Otherwise I'm looking to maybe buy a late 1900s MGB or something that's a sports car.

I just came across this video about a motorbike gearbox, and have a couple questions.

Firstly, she says the detent for neutral is between first and second gears. Why isn't it between fifth and first? That would seem to make more sense to me. Are you expected to shift down to first when setting off, then shift back over neutral to get to second? And presumably the grooves in the shifting drum have gaps between fifth and first to stop you shifting too high and ending up back in first, or is there another mechanism for that?

Secondly, and probably more importantly for my understanding of the transmission, can someone elaborate on how the 'constant mesh' transmission means it doesn't need synchronisers? For example, before the shift from neutral to first is shown, the input shaft, and the first free-wheeling gear with it, are rotating while the output shaft and the corresponding dog clutch are not. Surely, when the dog clutch is moved to connect with the free-wheeling gear, they wouldn't be able to mesh, unless it happened right when the recess and pin were in line, and even then that would cause a jolt. What am I missing here? I also watched another video with a physical gearbox, which seems to confirm that it works like in the first video, but doesn't explain it much, and I can't really see why it works.

Sensor 1	Sensor 2
Oscillates between 0.1 V and 0.75 V	Stays at 0.45 V

1.1L I4 petrol engine
Measurements taken about six minutes after starting

There was a fault code for sensor 2 that I cleared about 3 000 km ago, but it hasn't come back since. There was never a CEL