scutiger

I just bought a nice OLED monitor and I'm trying to take advantage of it to play my games in HDR. If I run my games in gamescope, then HDR runs fine but my PS4 controller doesn't work. If I play without gamescope, the controller works, but HDR does not.

I've been trying to figure this out for a bit, and some people have been having some luck with the -e flag, which does nothing for me.I've tried Steam Input and overlay in all combinations of enabled and disabled and I've tried in big picture/gamepadui. Either way I have to choose between HDR and the controller. Has anyone gotten this to work?

I modeled an object in Blender intending to print it, but when I import it into PrusaSlicer or Cura, the dimensions don't quite match.

In Blender, the dimensions are 178mm x 142mm, but when I import it into Cura or PrusaSlicer, it imports it as 180 x 138mm. I can manually adjust the dimensions, but why is this happening? And will it mess up my fit in the end? Who do I trust here? I don't want to waste hours printing for nothing.

I've been listening to this a bunch lately. This is the cleanest-sounding concert recording I've ever found on youtube.

I want to put grilled paneer, arugula, and salmon roe on a cracker as an appetizer or early snack.

I feel like the salty/umami roe with the bitter/peppery freshness of arugula on the grilled paneer would taste nice. In terms of texture there would be the chewy/squeaky cheese, the crispy cracker, and the pop of the roe.

I'm thinking a cracker like a triscuit, but I feel like they're too thick for what I'm trying to put together.

Anyway, before I spend time and money to make a concoction that tastes like garbage, does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?

I have a model I want to print that has multiple layers of internal walls. They are useless and can't be seen in the finished product, like a hollow cylinder inside another hollow cylinder.

I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the slicer from including those useless parts. I've tried with Cura and PrusaSlicer. Is there another tool I should be using for this?

Is there a way to automatically locally save Spotify music as I listen to it? Or to access/convert the files that Spotify saves for offline playback?

I just got my printer, got it all set up, followed all the instructions, and it looks like it should be working, but it's not.

I've gone through the auto bed leveling, then adjusted the height with a piece of paper. Now, trying to run my first test print, the only thing the printer will do is attempt to auto-level itself. If I let it go, it will just do it over and over. If I hit the stop button, it gives me error message 203 (Probing Failed), the screen locks up, and the printer keeps attempting to auto-level over and over. The only thing I can do is turn it off.

What am I missing?

Edit: So it turns out the included test files are no good. I downloaded a benchy and it printed just fine.

When you make something that's too big for your printer, how do you hide the seams from bonding when aesthetics are a priority?

Anyone have any experience playing over Steam Link on wifi?

It seems like no matter what I do, the performance is really shitty. Both the host and the client are in line of sight of the router, and I can get 500+ mbps and my latency seems good, but the performance is garbage. As soon as I go wired, I can get great performance at 100mbps or less.

Is there a good way to mitigate this? Am I doing something wrong?

Does anyone know how to turn off chat so it doesn't pop up when I open steam?

The latest update has re-enabled it for me, and the option to not open it doesn't seem to exist anymore. I have it set to not sign in, which it doesn't, but it still opens the chat box every time.