this post was submitted on 15 Aug 2023
10 points (100.0% liked)

ErgoMechKeyboards

5827 readers
33 users here now

Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards

Rules

Keep it ergo

Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)

i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²

¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid

No Spam

No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.

No Buy/Sell/Trade

This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.

Some useful links

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

I have do some research about doing dactyl manuform, and I see people mostly solder directly diodes and copper wire to the switch. So i want to know that if i build dactyl manuform with hotswap function, will there have some problems which can kill my board? And when comparing handwired and hotswap. which is easier to do if i'm a beginner? And another question: is reset buttons neccessary for this build? (because i saw many guides are always including this component)

top 4 comments
sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] nydas@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

If you use hotswap, you’ll need something solid and immovable to mount those hotswaps to. That’s generally the pcb, as they both slot in and get soldered on. So you’d need to have a pcb with hotswaps that could work on a Dactyl, and a way to mount it so that is was stable and would take the pressure of pushing in a new switch.

Amoeba Kings is a per key pcb. I have one I built in my git that is choc spaced with RGB too. But you then have to solder each of these together, and attach them firmly to the case. So it would certainly be more work/effort/planning than simply hand wiring.

[–] Skree@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

Kill your board? No! They're all data pins, so there isn't current to kill anything unless you short to the PCB or a battery somehow!

I make flexible pcbs with hotswap for dactyls (and other curved / flat keyboard production). They save oodles of time, and make troubleshooting easier too! All you need is a little hotglue on the edges to lock the pcb fully in place (I have a screw version produced too just need to get a good source of screws to include).

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1367143291/dactyl-flexible-pcbs-4-and-5-high?click_key=5d7649fe8152c918995eb10e441b6f5cf89c8d13%3A1367143291&click_sum=4fdd455d&ref=shop_home_recs_4&pro=1

Handwired builds, especially uninsulated are more prone to shorts that will cause unexpected switch behavior. PCBs even per key help minimize that risk.

[–] fhein@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Regarding the reset button, depending on how your firmware is configured it might be necessary for flashing they keyboard. It seems like most firmwares have keyboard combos for flashing without a reset button though, see this.

[–] Necromnomicon@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I have a dactyl manuform and for the life of me cannot get any of the keyboard commands to actually reset the board. So I have a reset switch on mine for that reason.