Home Networking

TLDR: Why do so many routers support >1Gbit/s on their WiFi while only having 1Gbit/s ethernet interfaces?

So, I've been upgrading parts of my home setup and have a router (without AP) that has 2.5G interfaces. My PC also has a 2.5G interface, but that only going to the router is kinda useless (the ISP offers 1G).

The place my PC is at is also a good position for an AP. So, I went looking for a cheap second hand wifi router and stumbled upon quite a few that were boasting >1G connection speeds, not only AX but also AC. Now I know this is often a combined theoretical Max, but still a lot offer >1G for the single band.

The vast majority of these routers, though, have 1G Ethernet ports. Putting that between my PC and router reduces that linkspeed and I can't actually reach over 1G for the WiFi devices as well. Why would you sell a product like that. Undoubtedly those radio's were more expensive but their in a package that can't fully utilize them. I can think of some reasons: marketing, radio's are mostly not fully utilized anyways, helps with latency, maybe?

Does anyone know why it's done like this?

I'm looking to replace my old Netgear Nighthawk with a new router. Currently my house does have some dead zones which we make up for using a powerline. But the powerline isn't always stable and we have to switch wifi networks depending on where we are in the house.

My question is, is it better to get a mesh network or a standard router with either range extenders (ex: TP-Link OneMesh) or mesh features (ex: Asus AiMesh)? I couldn't really find any article that listed the differences between mesh routers and standard routers with extendable features. They only compare mesh routers with standard routers.

More info:

Preferably, I would like to go with the standard router for the higher speeds and extra ports but I'm afraid that won't solve our dead zone issues. Also, buying two or three standard routers is way more expensive than a mesh network with multiple satellites.

Speed and signal strength are important for me since both I and my brother WFH and do online gaming. Unfortunately, the home office (where the router is) and bedrooms (where we game and where my brother works) are on opposite sides of the house. Another note is that when the garage opens, my brother loses signal in his room for some reason. I haven't experienced that despite being closer to the garage than him

Hello, For some context I am moving into my first home. I am looking for a network solution to use and will last a long time. My original idea was just getting a new wifi 7 router maybe a gaming one since gaming is my passion but I got talking to my friend and he has a ubiquity Dream Machine and talks really highly about it and I would love this/something similar to it. He showed me all the features it does and the layout of the UI etc. Being able to add security cameras to it and such is something I very much so want a long with a lot of the other things it can do. I am good with technology I am a software engineer and I currently have things such as netalertX and adguard home running on a mesh network so I can and would be willing to set things up.

Is this the only only type of device that does this kind of thing or are there others? Any suggestions or alternatives I like to look at options before buying.

Side note budget is relatively high aka I am willing and unless given alternatives I like more going to be going with the dream machine and the other required items from them. Thanks :)

I just fought getting a 3rd party range extender working and wanted to share what I learned.

Equipment:

Macard re1200 range extender and Gigaspire blast u4 GS2028E router

After setup of the Macard extender, all 3 lights were solid green meaning that it connected and authenticated to the router. However, devices connected (wirelessly) to the macard could not access the internet.

What I found that fixed it was I had to enable the "ARP spoofing" security flag in the Gigaspire's settings. The initial user ID and password are printed on the label on the back of the router so use that to log in.

I created a whitelist access profile. That ensures that the whole WAN is blocked except what is exceptionally whitelisted. I started with an empty whitelist. The LAN is rightfully accessible and the WAN is rightfully inaccessible.

The router does not use DSL. Instead, it uses a USB mobile broadband LTE modem. The modem has its own website which gives SMS capability. The modem is technically upstream to the router, so it is blocked when the WAN blocking profile is enabled. I want to whitelist the modem so that when I am blocking WAN access I can still reach the web UI of the modem and monitor SMS msgs.

Fritzbox is designed so that all attempts to directly access an IP is blocked if whitelisting is in play. IP addresses cannot be whitelisted, only URLs using FQDNs. So I did “nslookup 10.10.50.8” to get the hostname of the modem. Then I whitelisted the hostname. That does not work. The modem is still blocked.

Was looking into this today and this video came up, so thought I'd share

Summary:

This video is about securing Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall.

The speaker, Jim, argues that while Cloudflare tunnels are a great technology, they can introduce security risks because all the traffic that comes into your network is visible to Cloudflare. To mitigate these risks, Jim suggests segmenting your internal network and adding extra layers of security.

Here are the key steps to secure Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall according to Jim:

• Create a Mac VLAN for the Cloudflare tunnel. This will isolate the traffic coming from the tunnel from the rest of your network.
• Add an internal firewall rule to allow traffic only from the Mac VLAN to the specific port where your service is running. This will restrict the Cloudflare tunnel's access to only the resources it needs.
• Configure your firewall to perform IDS/IPS on the traffic coming from the Cloudflare tunnel. This will help to identify and block malicious traffic.

By following these steps, you can add extra layers of security to your network and reduce the risk of a breach even if your Cloudflare tunnel is compromised.

Jim also mentions that a next-generation firewall can be used for additional security benefits. This type of firewall can perform deeper inspections of traffic and provide better protection against sophisticated attacks.

Overall, the video provides a good overview of the security risks associated with Cloudflare tunnels and how to mitigate those risks using VLANs and an internal firewall.

Title. I have my CCST (yes, I should've gotten the CCNA, working on it. My school paid for the voucher) and CompTIA A+.

I'm trying to make a presentable resume for networking internships but I'm hearing conflicting advice about whether I should have a github portfolio or not.

I host a web server that links to a blog. Some things on that blog include GNS3 labs, packet tracer activities I've created, Bash scripts for simple Linux admin tasks etc. I just have a link to this static website. Why would recruiters open up my github and care about my packet tracer files or daily cron job script for RAID backups?

I'm not interested in programming outside of network automation. I've used netmiko before with GNS3 and it's incredible, but I don't see why (or how) I would put those netmiko scripts on github.

cross-posted from: https://lazysoci.al/post/13500180

I have the Pi-Hole acting as the DHCP server and DNS server too and this works fine for 23 hours and then it flops and I don't understand why.

Basically after 24 hours, all devices just disconnect from the router and when I try and reconnect them, they say they're unable to get an IP address.

But before they drop connection, they all report the DNS server as the Pi-Hole.

If I change my DHCP to static and connect to my router, I see that the Pi-Hole is still connected with its static IP just fine.

If I factory reset the router and then add the same SSID and password, the Pi-Hole automatically reconnects and then all devices can reconnect again, so I'm unsure what the issue is.

Can someone break this down. I feel stupid for not understanding what's happening here.

Hopefully I am in the right community.

So I have a router, a TP Link Archer AX53, nice router. I wanted to improve the signal in my room and bought a TP link Deco X10. So CAT 6 cable to my room, connect my router and deco.

I thought this might just be a quick tick to add the deco as a mesh device and boom problem sorted.

Now I know this is not a simple WiFi 6 mesh setup, seems like the deco and archer modem does not work together, they make their individual network points.

Does anyone know a solution or am I stuck with two networks. Not end of the world but would have been nice if it can be one mesh network

I didn't even know cat 8 cabling was a thing.

Thought this was interesting. Maybe it can help someone who's in a similar position to myself and looking at their options

Everyone was kind enough to ram my brain chock full of knowledge about switches and I came away feeling like I can explain it to other people. (please don't test me on this, I'll fail)

But now I'm trying to figure out how I want my network to look and so it's best I ask the people smarter than me that actually understand what I'm trying to do.

My house is an average sized, end of terrace in a big city and so while I can get decent Internet speeds, I get lots of WiFi signal congestion with neighbours, buildings, etc.

In my present router, which I really need to replace, I have my NAS and cable box plugged in via Ethernet, everything else is connected via WiFi. That's a bunch of phones, a couple laptops, and a couple Raspberry Pi's (including my one with all my home services, like Home Assistant and my Pi-Hole).

The design I'm cooking up, is that my NAS would be on a virtual LAN with no direct access to the Internet, my Raspberry Pis would have Internet access. I don't need to worry about my smart home devices having Internet access since they're all Zigbee devices. But I plan to switch my cable box to an IPTV box and I'm also wanting to get a video doorbell and security camera for the garden, so that's at least three virtual local area networks. Four if I add a guest network.

My questions are really simple ones and you're probably gonna laugh at how stupid they are… can I do this all with a single switch? Do I need a separate access points for each VLAN or can I have multiple vLANs on a single AP? How many ports should I be looking at on my switch? Would four be enough for my set-up? Also managed is best right?

Okay, I've been watching lots of YouTube videos about switches and I've just made myself more confused. Managed versus unmanaged seems to be having a GUI versus not having a GUI, but why would anyone want a GUI on a switch? Shouldn't your router do that? Also, a switch is like a tube station for local traffic, essentially an extension lead, so why do some have fans?

There are apparently only two documented ways to reverse tether an Android via USB to a linux host:

• openVPN method
• Gnirehtet

OpenVPN dead
I really wanted the #openVPN method to work because I’m a fan of reducing special-purpose installations and using Swiss army knives of sorts. In principle we might expect openVPN to be well maintained well into the future. But openVPN turns out to be a shit show in this niche context. Features have been dropped from the Android version.

Gnirehtet dying
Gnirehtet works but it’s falling out of maintenance. ~~It’s also unclear if~~ #Gnirehtet really works without root. There is mixed info:

• Ade Malsasa Akbar from Ubuntubuzz claims root is not needed (and devs agree).
• OSradar claims root is needed. (edit: they are mistaken)

If anyone has managed to reverse tether an unrooted Android over USB to a linux host using free software, please chime in. Thanks!

update on Gnirehtet

Gnirehtet indeed works without root. But some apps (like VOIP apps) fail to detect an internet connection and refuse to communicate.

#askFedi

Let me explain my current setup so that I can explain the problem...

For redundancy, I have two internet providers at home. One of them is DSL and the router is located at the entrance hall. The other one is cable and the connection point (and therefore the modem/router) is at the living room. My workstation is in another room on the opposite end of the apartment.

To connect all that, I bought a set of powerline adapters from TP-Link, one with 3 ports and WI-FI extender and two with 3-ports alongside with a load balancer multi-wan router, with 5 ports also from TP-Link.

Right now, I have one the multi-wan router connected to one powerline adapter (one port for each wan), another adapter at the entrance hall connected to the LAN of the DSL router, and the adapter with Wi-FI extender connected to the Cable router.

The wired part works. My workstation connects to the router and I get an IP from it. The router can connect with both WANs and my connection seems stable. My problem is in the wireless part. From my phone, it says it is connected but it can not resolve any external connection.

At first I thought the wi-fi was getting confused with the different DHCP servers, but even after disabling DHCP on DSL/Cable routers (not using it anyway because I am connecting through the "multi-wan" router, right?) the connection is still not going through. I can access the management part of the Wi-FI extender and it seems to be on the same subnet as the multi-wan router, so I guess it can connect to it, but the actual connection outside simply doesn't happen.

Is this setup so out of ordinary? Should I just forget about the wi-fi extender and add a "real" access point in the living room? I guess I could accept that the mobile devices need to be aware of the separate WAN routers, but it would be a lot nicer if they could all connect transparently...

I’m having to use a 4g router (from Three in the UK), as the wired internet is rubbish. I’d like suggestions for a 3rd party router 4&5G compatible for future proofing.

It needs to support bridge mode (to avoid having to double NAT) and ideally support IPv6 as three support that as well. I don’t need WiFi.

Any suggestions welcome & thanks.

After years with Powerline and Wifi, i'm slowly swapping things to MOCA as i have a fairly new house that has good coax to every room.

At the moment i have a simple setup with point to point, but run a diplexer because I have a HDHomerun right next to where the master GoCoax Box is - so filter off the TV Signals.

I want to add a third Moca (GoCoax) box

I have attached an image of my current setup

What is the easiest way to add in another moca box? Is there a Splitter that is easily avalible in the uk that i can put in the loft that does the splitting as well as the frequency seperation and leaves free ports for future additions??

Or do i just need to stack a splitter with a diplexers?

Cheers Guys

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Diplexers

GoCoax Boxes

You create a new user to repost that users content from reddit? This is absolutely ridiculous. You make it so we can't block your spam by blocking the bot user if you create a new user for every post.

My friends live on a small farm. Their water supply is from an artesian well. When the temperature drops below freezing, they have to turn on a heat lamp to keep the pump and pipes from freezing. This is set up in an open front shed about 75 feet from the house. I looked at setting up a wifi plug on the heat lamp, controlled via Alexa. (They've built a box to enclose the pump) However, their Wifi does not extend that far. They are using these AT&T branded Netgear pucks, Model MR6500, that barely reach halfway across the house. They are switching to Starlink in a week or so. (I know nothing of Starlink beyond it's using satellites) How can I get this to work for them? Cheaply, if possible.

Hi guys,

I'm setting up a network with a series of groups of computer, tag printer and laser cutting machine for a home project. I need these groups to be easily replaceable/swappable, and for that I'm planning on setting up all them with fixed IPs behind a router for each group, so one computer can be replaced for another without having to configure IPs all again.

Each router would be connected via WAN port to the ISP's router with their own IP.

Communication with both the printer and the laser cutter is done via fixed IP.

Will this work? What possible issues could I have, or what should I do to prevent them?

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I am trying to connect my PS4 with a lan cable wired through the wall to a network switch. The connection test on the PS4 fails to recognize an IP, yet the network switch gives me the flickering green light, and the cable tester from the two ends says the cable is fine. Internet on the other devices connected to the switch is fine, yet this cable, with other devices too, has issues.

My wife and I are building a home and as I am a gamer and my wife works from home, having fast and reliable internet is huge for us. We are both wanting to be wired into the internet. I am not the most tech savvy when it comes to home networking. I am trying to think what I need in the office for outlet wise to have the modem and router in there so we can connect via cable easily. I was thinking of asking for a coax cable into the room to connect the modem to it.

What are your thoughts on one coax cable for that room? Should I be asking for different outlets in the room or in other places? What other things should I be considering in my house?

Any or all help will be appreciated! Thanks!